All: I built the “Essential Workbench” by Lon Schleining (FW #167) and it was a fun project and have been very satisfied with it. Lon wrote another article in a subsequent FW issue about making a cabinet below it which looks like a worthwhile addition to keep chisels,planes, etc. close by.
Am curious if anyone has built it and,if so, what are their thoughts?? Seems to me that any cabinet of this type mounted below the bench would have to be set-back so as not to interfere with clamps used. Any other thoughts from anyone that I should think about in the design or construction? Lon used 3/4 Baltic Birch plywood with splined mitered joint for the carcass. Looks like it would be strong enough but I’ve not used this type of joint before.
Thanks.
Bruce
Replies
I've been meaning to build this same bench for a few months now but haven't gotten around to it. Do you have any photos of it to share? The construction appears to be failry straightforward from what I've seen so did you have any trouble or make any modifications to it?
Brett
Brett: Since I'm 6'4" I did adjust the measurements to make it higher and to fit the length of the premade top. I followed the construction details in the article. Was glad that I had a benchtop mortising machine because of all the mortise and tenon joints. Fortunately, I had 16/4 cherry so used that for the legs and 6/4 for the rails. Used 4/2 for the two ends (maple) and front apron (cherry).
Decided to order a pre-made hard maple top (63 1/2"x 24 ") from Lee Valley so that dimension was also different. I didn't feel like (nor wanted to take the time) gluing-up the top in three sections to feed it through my 10" benchtop planer to get it dead flat. Was glad I did that but found that I had to sand-off the finish on the top since it was too slippery.
I also made the dovetail joints to fasten the ends and front apron. I did make the dovetails evenly spaced and a bit larger than Lon's. Had never handcut dovetails especially in 4/2 stock and the first set was a bit disappointing in the fit of the joint (wish I had practiced on 4/2 scrap first) but the second set was dead-on.
Used purplewood for the wedges at the end of the tenons when assembling the bench...contrast looks great. Finally I ordered the same vises (Lee Valley) as in the article making sure that I followed the installation of the twin screw end vise (full width of the top) exactly as the directions state. (Tip: make sure that when you cut the end apron you cut it wide enough to fit the end vise screws through it...I didn't and had to make another). Made round bench dog holes (brass ones from Lee Valley). Final finish was equal mix of boiled linseed,tung oil and poly to the whole bench. End result is a very heavy bench..built like a tank...that will not move around at all. Done in cherry it's like a piece of furniture. All told, cost was around $900.
I'm not very high tech so will need to enlist my daughter's help to send a picture but will try to send it in the next week or so. Probably more info. than you wanted. I'd build it again in a heartbeat!! Next project will be the underneath cabinet since the basic bench design contemplated doing this. Enjoy building it.
Bruce
I would like to see some pictures too.
I just picked up 2 8-ft. sections of a bowling alley. Rock maple from the approach end of the lane. I'll be spending the next few weeks pulling nails & gluing up the top. It's always nice to see how someone else did the job.
Ray: Sounds like the bowling alley will make a good bench. I'll try to post pix (with daughter's help). Just realized in my post that the dimensions of material was wrong for the apron and rails. Aprons are 2" and rails 3" stock.
Bruce
I hope the bowling alley will work. My nail puller has a chip in the jaw, now I'm waiting for a new one. I had to call the neighbor to help me lift a 30" wide section on to a stand. I just split it off to make a work table. I couldn't lift the blasted thing. That workbench will be stout!!
Ray et al: Tried to attach pix of the bench but am having trouble with uploading the files. Will keep trying or look elsewhere in knots for prior posts on how to do it.
No rush on my part, the rate the nails are coming out of that blasted bowling alley, I should be ready for glue-up by Christmas. If that clear maple wasn't so pretty (and expensive). I'd give it up. Broke one nail puller, and the little toolbox nail puller is really struggling (bifocals don't help either). New nail puller should arrive around Thursday or Friday and I'll attack it again with vigor :-)
Check this out: http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=36992.1
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Bob: Thanks for the help.
Bruce
Bruce,
That's what Knots is all about. Got a question, put it up here and these folks will offer their experience.
Gotta love it,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Here is a pic of my version. Pretty straight foward.
Pay attention to the details for the Veritas Twin Screw and you'll be fine.
The top on mine is about 5" thick. The front apron is about 9" wide, The vise faces are 4.5 thick.
The frame members are 4"x4" with 6" strechers. It does not move.
Gene: Looks familiar. Nice job. I agree 100% with you on your comment on following the instructions carefully on the twin screw vise. Any plan to follow-up with Lon's version of the lower cabinet from his subsequent article?? I'm planning to give it a go this Winter once this blasted Florida heat goes away.
Bruce
I too was inspired to build a bench similar to Lon's design. I'd gotten by for years with the low tech versions we've probably all used. So I used his design as a template and made some minor changes and put a few personal touches to it - like curved dovetails and some accent woods. Its made from ash with wenge and african blackwood.
As for the cabinet - waited about 2 years before completing that. In my pics you'll see the cabinet sits between the rails. There isn't any interference with the bench dogs. Its made from 3/4" baltic birch with wenge to cover the edges. The drawers were 1/2 baltic with ash fronts and ball bearing slides.
Brian
Brian: Beautiful job!! Love the curved dovetails and the accent woods. Gives me some good ideas for my future cabinet. Thanks for the pixs.
Bruce
I am building this bench right now but am making 2 modifications.
1. I ordered square bench dogs from Lee Valley but they recommend having bench dog holes a minimum of 3" as the spring only engages after 2.5"; therefore I am going to be making my dog hole strips and rear side apron 3.5".
2. I am planning to only put 2 rows of dog holes instead of the 4 as Schleining did. 4 looks like an overkill with too many holes. Not sure about it though, any feedback would be great.
Nice Work. I like those curved DT. I notice at some point you put pads under the feet. I'm a bit curious why they were added. They appear to be a compressible material.Greg
<!---->•••••••
Exo 35:30-35<!---->
There was some unevenness in the concrete - plus I didn't want to put it directly on the concrete for fear of any seasonal moisture in the floor.B
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled