Replies

1. 
   HighschoolKid | Feb 02, 2020 08:04pm | #1

   Would doing something with dowel be easy or ok?

2. 
   _mj_ | Feb 02, 2020 11:07pm | #2

   Hi, if you feel safe uploading a drawing so we can see how the parts go together we would be able to help you better.

   In general MDF is not a very strong material for something that needs to be assembled and disassembled repeatedly...though if just a proof of concept and not a "user" it could suffice.

3. 
   user-2580599 | Feb 03, 2020 12:54am | #3

   I've had success using confirmat screws and MDF. Just be sure to fully clear the drilled holes of dust. Not doing this can cause blowout when driving the screw in. Good luck with your project.

4. 
   rob_ss | Feb 03, 2020 02:15am | #4

   I made a suite of bedroom furniture out of MDF and 1.5 inch square pine. It has so far lasted 20 years and still going strong.
   The fixings were a combination of 4 inch x no12 screws and biscuits which I put in with a router and trend biscuit cutter as it was all I had.
   The screws were simply screwed into the MDF through the pine.
   MDF is not strong enough to support a free edge horizontal to the floor without sagging, so you will need to keep the desk quite narrow, or re-inforce it in some way. A bit of 3mm aluminium L Section attached to the front would be enough for most desks. You can easily cut this on a bandsaw or USING AN OLD BLADE!!!! on a tablesaw. Fix the aluminium to some scrap MDF with dabs of superglue for safety.

   Ideally, you might use Knockdown (KD) fixings which would allow your rather large project to be taken down and put back together.
   You can do this quite easily with an M8 machine bolt (or whatever archaic equivalent the USA uses) and a suitable nut.
   The principle is to drill a hole through both pieces where you intend to join them, then cut a slot across the drilled hole on the underside of your mating piece. The nut goes in the slot, the bolt down both holes and tighten. You can use pan head or countersunk screws. Pans work best for MDF and, I think, are quite attractive.
   For totally hidden fixings, use something like https://www.amazon.com/LOOTICH-Eccentric-Pre-Inserted-Furniture-Connecting/dp/B07JD2WB8M/ref=sr_1_1_sspa - these are best in stronger material than MDF but you should be OK for a project that needs only to last until after an assessment if you re-inforce the nut holes with superglue.

   Why not take a trip to any office supply store near you - they will certainly have these sorts of things made in either MDF or, more likely, particleboard. Have a look at how they are made and copy that.
   You can probably find the fixings at your local hardware store

5. 
   HighschoolKid | Feb 10, 2020 08:27pm | #5

   Rob_SS thank you for your information, you dont have to worry about the usa cause i live in australia. I would still like to know someones opinion on using small dowel joins, my experience with dowel is that it has been strong even the small stuff. Im making this project out of 19 mm MDF board though.
   _MJ_ here is a plan i have for the project:

   
6. 
   _mj_ | Feb 11, 2020 05:01pm | #6

   Hi Kid, nice design! I would hesitate to buildvthe of mdf all edge to edge. If you build in some overlaps and add some hardware you'll be safer. I would suggest dowels for alignment and threaded connectors for attachment. The overlaps can provide ledges for parts to seat against as well. Press-in flanged hardware should give plenty of strength.

7. 
   rob_ss | Feb 12, 2020 04:00am | #7

   Sure you could use dowels.
   @_MJ_ has the right of it - use the dowels to make sure stuff lines up and secure with other fixings.

   Dowels and glue will however will be strong enough for everything except the top, which you have drawn in three pieces. For that, I'd try and make it out of a single piece if you can. If not, then you will certainly need a little support underneath to prevent sagging.

   Gluing MDF can be difficult. You are best to use epoxy such as araldite, though you can also get away with PVA - allow some to soak into the fuzzy edge for a few minutes before putting some more on. It's not as strong as the bolts though, which is one reason why they are used.
   The other is to allow the furniture to flat-pack for transport, saving costs.
   Considering possible commercialisation is worth extra marks I suspect!

   The design is interesting. If you have (or are) a friend in a wheelchair, ask their opinion and record that with a view to including it in your presentation.

8. 
   HighschoolKid | Feb 12, 2020 05:55pm | #8

   I've already been discussing with a teacher of mine who is in a wheelchair and i have looked up the general dimensions of a wheelchair and made it a bit bigger for larger wheelchairs. I will put some support at the back now thank you for mentioning that. I'll also add some support to the sides so they don't sag. Thank you for confirmation on the dowel joints and i will ask my D&T teacher what threaded fixings to use. I also a preciate the posistive coment on the design in general @_MJ_. Anything else you guys can think of would mean alot to me and again I thank you for all the help so far.

9. 
   daverichards | Feb 12, 2020 07:03pm | #9

   Can you share the SketchUp file?

10. 
    HighschoolKid | Feb 20, 2020 12:08am | #10

    i don't know how but i have bad news. The material i bought is a banned material in schools so i can't even make it out of that now. So i'm going to make a steel frame then put the desk top on that made out of another wood if i cant find one. (what suggestions do you have for that?) then make the shelves as planned also out of the new wood.

11. 
    daverichards | Feb 20, 2020 07:45am | #11

    Can you provide a list of what is banned or what isn't banned? That would make it easier to give you guidance.

12. 
    HighschoolKid | Feb 20, 2020 06:45pm | #12

    I have to wait a bit for my teacher to get me the list ill be back to you on that but for now do you have any recommendations at all?

13. 
    daverichards | Feb 20, 2020 07:45pm | #13

    Depending on the time and available funds, you might look into something like wood kitchen worktop stock. You can get stuff from Ikea or your probably your local DIY store. You could also get lumber that you surface and glue up to make the work surface if you have the tools available.

14. 
    user-7636233 | Feb 22, 2020 03:52am | #14

    You can use confirmat screws and mdf. hopefully, it will useful for you bro.
    Best of luck for your project!

15. 
    rob_ss | Feb 22, 2020 04:23am | #15

    Plywood would be acceptable I am sure.

    MDF can create hazardous dust which is probably why your school will not allow it.
    Decent ply is a lot more expensive than MDF though not ridiculously so.

    If Birch Ply is too costly, then you could use cheaper ply (make sure it is flat though) and paint it. See if you can get at least one face with few flaws. You really want BB grade if you can get it, but have a look at the CD grade stuff too as this is commonly available. With care laying out and a bit of luck, you can often get your parts without too many defects. BOG and sand the rest then paint it.

    I'd stick to the original design, though making the steel frame might be fun.

    If you can't use ply then ask again!

16. 
    HighschoolKid | Mar 11, 2020 09:17pm | #16

    So i found some rubber wood that I can use. Marquee rubberwood timber benchtop from bunnings, they are out of stock at the moment so i need to call them up. I bought steel for the frame, 30x30x2mm blue and 40x40x2mm blue the thicker stuff for the legs and then the thinner stuff for the hoirontal bits that im gonna put the benchtop on top of.

    https://www.bunnings.com.au/marquee-2200-x-600-x-25mm-rubberwood-timber-benchtop_p2667635