Here’s a weird one from a former carpenter turned schoolteacher:
I am about to embark on an ambitious science project with my students where they will build working models of systems in the human body. My plan is to have them build the skeletal structure out of dowel rods and simple hardware. I had a creative idea about how to form the rib cage, but I don’t know if it can be done.
Is it possible to soak an 12″ x 3/8″ or 1/2″ dowel rod in water for a few days, then wrap it around a 5 gallon bucket with a ton of duct tape and let it dry? If this is possible, then my problem of creating the rib cage is solved AND it becomes a really neat educational moment for my kids.
I was a simple frame and trim carpenter in my day, far from a fine woodworker, so any information, suggestions, thoughts, complaints, whatever, would be greatly appreciated from you guys and gals in the fine woodworking world!
Thanks!
Replies
So-Joe,
You can get thick, 3/16ths inch diameter and possibly bigger, solid copper grounding wire at Home Depot or any place supplying electricians. It is soft enough to easily bend by hand, can be cut with a good pair of pliers, and will file quickly to round off the ends. If you wanted a larger diameter, get small diameter copper tubing in a plumbing supply, again it will cut and bend easily, but you would need a small tubing cutter to cut it without crushing.
John W.
I haven't had much luck with wood staying bent after only being wetted. But if you can figure out a way to steam it for an hour or so, your system might work. Steaming softens the wood so it will bend easier, and when it cools it will harden up and keep the shape it is bent into.
A trick you can use if you can't steam, is to use three or more thin strips glued together then clamped to your form. Leave the strips around the form until the glue dries, and the piece wll retain it's curved shape. Trim then round over with a router.
I don't suggest using duct tape, as the tape glue will be hard to remove from the wood. I've used strips from a rubber inner-tube, bungie cords, nylon strapping knotted then twisted tight with a stick, and probably a few dozen other tricks for holding the wood. Just be sure the wood can breath to dry, or it may mildew.
Edited 11/9/2003 11:14:01 PM ET by 4DTHINKER
Hmmmm...
Now I just have to figure out how to build a steamer, which could be a science project all unto itself.....
How long would I have to steam the material?
A steamer is easy. I use a wagner wallpaper steamer (about 30.00 at home depot) as the steam source and just plug the hose into a length of pvc pipe. I have a cap on each end, one with a hole for the hose and one with several vent holes drilled in it. I just slip everything together, no glue. Be aware that the pvc will bend if not supported over it's length. It get's very hot. The steamer will steam for two hours or so without having to be refilled and has no open flames or exposed burners and is UL listed.Tom
Douglasville, GA
So-Jjoe
There is a recent discussion last week about bending some wood 3/16" for a curved skirt for a table. Mike suggested soaking the wood in downy fabric softner. I haven't tried it but apparently it works
ASK
An alternative might be to glue-laminate the ribs from 1/16 in (1.5mm) 3GL birch plywood. This is sold for jobs like boat building, furniture making, etc and it bends to shape easily and glues-up with minimal spring back
Scrit
Thanks for all the feedback, everyone. This project is getting more incredible by the day!
A friend of mine suggested I try soaking the dowels in vinegar. This has nice potential for the science experiment because we could then compare the results with a steamer, downy fabric softener and vinegar.
Anyone have anysuggestions for how long I'd have to soak the material in vinegar or downy?
Thanks again!
So-Joe,
Haven't tried vinegar for bending (ammonia is another story!), but have done steam bending and glue lamination with great success. When steaming, it's important to keep the steam chamber small enough to prevent the heat (BTUs) from dissipating. It's also important to keep the steam moving to totally penetrate the wood; static steam doesn't work.
When pre-soaking in water and Downey (10:1), the Downey acts as a surfactant, breaking down the surface tension and allowing the water to better penetrate the wood fiber. I've had good luck pre-soaking the pieces by placing them on end in a PVC tube, topping off with the water/Downey mixture, covering and allowing to soak overnight - though you can soak for a week without a problem.
The nominal rule of thumb for steaming is one hour for each inch of thickness. Be careful to avoid over-cooking the wood - oversteaming can cook the lignin and ruin the wood. When I'm making oval Shaker-style boxes, the pieces are between 60 and 65 thousandths of an inch in thickness; instead of steaming them, they're soaked in a hot water bath for about 15 minutes before bending.
Lon Schleining's "The Complete Manual of Wood Bending" was a useful resource when I was learning about bending and laminating wood.
Good luck!Paul
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
Hi,
I've done some simple bending using a home made steamer (PVC pipe, wallpaper steamer). I used pine for making a staircase trim. My experience was that even at 1/2" thickness you needed considerable force and good clamping to bend the wood and keep it in position until cooled down. The radius I made was probably bigger than you'll need. It worked OK.
I found some good info the Lee Valley site very.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=31161&category=1,45866,45867&abspage=1&ccurrency=3&SID=
You'll learn that ideally the wood should be in compression during bending, which apparently is the trick to prevent failure for sharp bends. Maybe something to consider.
Gert
FWW On Bending Wood is still in print and might be helpful
http://www.taunton.com/store/pages/070035.asp
I haven't tried bending dowels but it probably is fairly easy. Add downy water softner to very hot water in a trough. When water cools off a bit (10 minutes or more ) wrap around bucket and leave it for a day. If you make the dowels longer than needed you can tie a string from one end to the other tightly. This eliminates duct tape. If the dowel resists bending all the way, add more hot water and soak longer. One poster reccomends 10:1 formula for downy to water, I never knew what the ratio was so I always dumped the entire bottle in and saved what did not evaporate.If you use flat stock say 5/16" thick any width you desire you can bend most woods around a bucket in less than 10 minutes.
mike
I'd like to thank Tom for the suggestion about the wagner steamer. Sounds like an excellent idea. Nice and portable for my summer projects at the beach house.Had to use your posting Mike, Toms didn't seem to work for me.
Edited 11/17/2003 10:29:28 PM ET by blackbill
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