http://www.hawleysfinewoodworking.com/
What is scrubbed pine? How was it typically prepared and finished? Milk paint? Distress the top to make it look old, worn, and abused? How to do that? How to finish it so that it looks authentic?
Company boards: These attached to the ends of the table top and were supported by slide out arms beneath the top. How were those arms constructed and secured (i.e., joinery). Sagging at each end was a problem or not? Was this design a precursor to what we now know as an extension table with the leaves inserted in the center?
Thanks in advance.
Replies
English Bar Table?
I would guess scrubbed pine is an abraded pine surface where the softer wood between the growth rings has been worn away. But maybe it's just somebody's term for a finish like one of those Norwegian lye finishes that is scrubbed on and leaves the pine in their cabins white forever.
Not sure about the table leaves you are talking about. Is it like the English bar tables that convert from a four top to six, by lifting up the top and sliding out the leaves beneath it that have attached arms. Each leaf is about 1/4 to 1/3 the width of the table top. It is really quite an interesting table. I'll snap some pictures of the thing, if someone is interested. I've always thought it was wonderfully clever.
Peter
Hi,
I have long wondered what a "scrubbed finish" is. I have heard it a few times, mostly with respect to old pine tables. I just went to Google, and did a search on "scrubbed pine". Wow. There are a lot of things on the web which use the term "scrubbed pine". Most of them are antique dealers or new furniture dealers. Not a single one of them that I looked at gave an explanation of what they meant by it. There are a lot of discussions about "what is scrubbed pine?" in various woodworking forums. In most of them, someone ventured a guess as to what it might be. Some said that a white stain, like limed oak, was added to the pine. Others said that a thin white paint was rubbed into the pine. Some said that the pine was washed with a lye solution. One said that old pine tables were always painted, and somewhere along the line, someone stripped the pieces, usually using a lye solution, and that gives them this "scrubbed look". Others said that continual scrubbing (cleaning after use) gives a pine table this effect. Others said that you have to use some sort of white stain or paint or lye, and then use WAX over it. Some said that for more protection, you could put a coat of varnish over the stain or lye solution or paint, before putting the wax on.
Even the book "Wood" by Fine Woodworking has a definition of scrubbed pine. It fits in with the cloud of definitions I described above. I have never seen the term in a book on finishing. I have never heard professional woodworkers use the term, just salesmen. I don't think that 'scrubbed pine' means the same thing to any two different people who use the term. That makes it a lot of fun to use. "Scrubbed Pine" is a lot like the term "love". It means whatever you want it to mean, and you can reserve the right to change your mind.
That was a fun search. I feel good. Now I will go do some woodwork.
Mel
opportunities
Perhaps there's a job opportunity for the unemployed hiding in the woodwork, so to speak. Imagine putting "Pine Scrubber" at the top of one's resumé! ;-)
Ralph,
You can only put "Pine Scrubber" on your resume if you are a certified Pine Scrubber. Anyone can obtain an official-looking certificate stating that you are a Certified Pine Scrubber by sending me $75 and a stamped envelope for the return.
I didn't come up with that idea until I heard from you. Of course, being from NASA, I remember the guy who would name a star after you if you sent him $25. :-)
Mel
That sounds reasonable, Mel. But, who certifies the certifier? ;-)
scrubbed pine tablle
When I was a child we had a scrubbed pine kitchen table as did my grandmother it was scrubbed every day with plain cold water and a scrubbing brush. There never was any substance used on , the table top was scrubbed white over the years and if you go into a used furniture store or even on the internet you can still buy them as I have, Wouldn't have any other kind in my kitchen.
Dorothy,
Your message was a surprise. The message that you replied to is a few years old. In any case, I remember this thread well. We didn't take it too seriously, and had a lot of fun. I think "scrubbed" means whatever you want it to mean. Thanks for writing
Mel
Mel
Your message was a surprise too. We haven't seen you here in a long time. I knew you were still alive 'cause I see you at meetings. Nice to see you back. You're right, this was an interesting thread, and you did a lot of research on the scrubbed look. Interesting input from Dorothy.
Company boards.
I have made them and include pictures of one I made for my son out of reclaimed fence boards harvested from Loudoun County farms in Virginia, USA.
They have two arms which run parallel to, and against slide out arms that are supported by slots in the aprons at the ends of the table. In addition to the aprons there are another set of cross members behind each end apron with another set of corresponding slots so the sliders have two points of contact. When the company boards are installed, a hole is drilled sideways thru each pair of supports for a turned peg to go thru and tie the arms together. You remove the pegs when you want to remove the company boards.
The reason I use company boards for some tables is this: If the boards of the table top run lengthwise it wouldn't look right to cut the top in half for traditional leaves which work when the top boards run from side to side. As it is the company boards that I make go side to side but the transition from the lengthwise top to the side to side company boards is taken care of by the breadboard ends.
I know I have a picture somewhere of the underside of the company board with the two screwed on runners that match up with the sliders, but I can't find it.
The white strings or rubber bands in picture one were just to hold the sliders in a retracted mode while I was moving the table during construction of the boards. Nothing like having the sliders come sliding out while you are carrying the frame up the shop steps alone.
Gordon,
VERY NICE TABLE.
Mel
Thanks, Mel.
It's driving me nutz looking for that picture of the underside of the company board. If the orig poster is still with us I meant to tell him that the boards are very stable, don't droop when leaned on and are drawn tight to the breadboard ends by the pegs because the holes are slightly offset, so the pegs draw the two ends together like a post and beam peg.
Ralph,
Who certifies the certifier?
Well SWMBO, of course. Who else.
She has taught me to seek her advice and consent on all matters.
Mel
Scrubbed Pine Kitchen Tables
Swenson,
Thanks for your helpful info. I can't view your pictures. When I select them I get an error message "file not found". I went to the Gallery, but there were 4,302 posts and no apparent way to search by name. What am I doing wrong here?
Also, thanks to all of the other member comments. Mr. Hawley's comments certainly help to clear up some of the confusion.
missing pix
All pictures on Knots are missing and the avatars too. If you had looked three days ago they would have been there, you are not doing anything wrong. Because it is the weekend, they are probably not going to fix this 'till tomorrow, if they can at all. Go over to the General Dis forum and there is a running thread about this problem.
The company boards that I make have two fixed arms that slide under the table top, and two slider arms that slide out from under the table top. The fixed and sliders lie next to each other and are pinned together with a peg thru a hole. It works well and there is no droop when leaned on. They usually are not left on the table, just put on for Christmas and Thanksgiving. If the fact that the boards run lengthwise on the table top, and crosswise on the company boards is a problem , a tablecloth hides it on the few times you would use the company boards. The only downside is that storing the c. boards with the two arms sticking out takes up more space than a simple leaf.
Hope the pictures come back so you can see the slots in the second apron I posted.
Scrubbed Pine Tables
Swenson,
Thanks for your reply. I've emailed customer service about the pic problem, but it'll be another day or two before they respond.
I'm beginning to understand the construction details from your info. Thanks.
Those pix are back.
The orig pix I sent can now be viewed. I'm still looking for the pix of the underside of the finished C board with the fixed runners sticking out. They are screwed to the underside and can only be long enough to almost reach the aprons under the overhang at the ends of the table. That way the C boards have runners under the table ends and the table has runners under the C boards.
Scrubbed Pine Tables
Swenson,
Thanks. I finally got to see the pics. That's a very nice table with a nifty design. It almost seems too simple in concept, but it works without sagging or binding. From a practical standpoint, do you have a rough guideline for the maximum width of the C-boards for this type of design? 12, 18, 24 inches?
Perhaps the webmasters got the point from my email (which included the thread topic and your name re: attached pics).
I'm also exploring the idea of a Tage Frid Dutch Dining Table (FWW #9) in which the C-boards are permanently attached to the slides; they are stored beneath the real table top and slide in from each end to the closed position. Any experience there? Pros/cons in your opinion? The real challenge is getting the taper of the sliders exact (and apron notch depth) so that the extended leaves are lifted to the exact height to match the thickness of the real top so all is level.
This was the first and only time I did C boards so I'm not too sure how far out you could go.
In the pix (#3) of the underside you are not looking at the table top for this table, just the frame. The wood you see underneath is a table that is just the type you are talking about. I bought it from Scan many years ago and it was replaced by a kitchen table I have since built. I took it apart and it's now in storage in my basement, The tapered sliders and notches look interesting. If I were to make one I would just copy the one I have. It was great when we were in a smaller house and sometimes needed more room at the table. You didn't have to pull out both sides to use it, so you had three sizes in one. We used it for thirty years.
Glad you finally got to see the pictures.
Doromectin
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