Hi Guys & Gals
I have a buddy painting some stereo cabinet for one of the local stereo shops. They want them painted with autobody paint and hope to get as good of finish as possible. The problem he’s having is the paint and primer soak into the the edges of the MDF and leave a different sheen. The end result leaves something to be desired. He asked me what I would use to seal the edges but since I have very little experience with MDF other than veneering and jigs I couldn’t help much. Does anyone have any suggestions I could pass on.
Your help is much appreciated. Cheers.
Replies
Funny you metion that-the current FW has an article on working with MDF and mentions your dilemma. The author uses drywall mud to fill the edges. We used to use Bondo in the cabinet shop I where I worked once upon a time. Seems to me the drywall mud would be easier to sand, but we used Bondo because there was nothing water-based in it to raise the grain or anything like that.
Ooops ! I ment to put this under the finishing section. I can't seem to move it so maybe the administrator can.
H.S.
Shellac will work real well. A couple coats on the edges, very lightly sand with a block and you'll be in tall cotton! I saw recently in a magazine where a guy used glue mixed with water but I haven't tried that. I've used shellac and it works nicely!
Regards,
Mack
"WISH IN ONE HAND, #### IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"
Coincidentally, I received the current issue of FWW just before I was about to paint a cabinet made from MDF.
So I tried the trick with drywall mud -- smearing it on with my finger, smoothing with a putty knife.
After the stuff was dry, I sanded the edges, and primed the whole piece with BIN, a shellac based primer from Zinsser. I then sanded and recoated with regular primer, followed by two coats of alkyd.
The added steps (joint compound on the edges, and a shellac sealer) produced a much better looking piece than using paint alone.
Edited 5/12/2004 10:38 am ET by nikkiwood
Incidentally, the white pantry shown in that article was created by Justus, a person on this website. Many of us had the opportunity to see this piece before FWW picked it up. He may be tired of my mentioning this, but I thought that was really cool.
At any rate, I asked how he primed the edges (as I was also thinking the water based drywall mix would cause swelling) and he replied that he uses an oil based primer and is satisfied with the results.
Glad that you are happy with the results that you have achieved. I really have not yet tackle a project using MDF as the main product, but feel equipped to do so when the time comes thanks to everyone's advice.
I can't quite figure out what parts of that piece were MDF and which were solid wood. Were the drawer fronts MDF?
Mark: My understanding is that the drawer fonts are MDF. Do an Archive search in the Gallery and you can read more about his work. It is entitled "Kitchen Pantry"
Edited 5/12/2004 12:40 pm ET by Robbie
Thanks. That's what I thought. Maybe I haven't worked with MDF enough, but when I look at the drawer fronts I can't help thinking about corners breaking off. It's a beautiful piece.
I just made two frame and panel doors (mdf) for a pocket door set up that has a washer/dryer stack. they are 81" tall and 21" wide, with mdf beadboard panels.I made the frame members 3" wide and used my regular rail and stile bits I use for kitchen doors. finished with vinyl sealer and 2 coats of BM alklyd enamel.no drywall compound. Light buff with scotchbrite pad between coats and looks good. Only reason I used mdf was, I couldn't find any 3/4 solid wood that was straight enuff for doors that large. I was really amazed at the stuff...
I remeber reading somewhere recently to use yellow glue. Smear it on with your finger and let is dry.
TDF
Yellow glue does a fine job of sealing the edges. You just have to be careful to get thorough coverage so you won't leave any partially absorbent spots- they can be easy to miss if you don't have good lighting. Also, be mindful of any glue that gets around the corner onto the faces of the MDF. Sand the edges lightly before priming and you'll get a nice even finish.
For future refence: If you are going to make something out of MDF that will have exposed edges ie: raised panels or speaker cabinets, then I would recomend you use an MDF product called Panfiber. Its made of 100% spuce fibers and has a very consistant core. This allows it to be finished without the edges 'sponging' or absorbing the finish at a higher rate.
RE: Panfiber
I've never heard of this product. Can you tell us anything about it -- who makes it, cost, etc.? Doesn't sound like a big box product, but is it commonly available from industrial suppliers?
Thanks.
A company called Atlantic Plywood stocks it. They cover the north east region. Dont know where you are located but Atlantics NJ # is 877-6723070. They only deal with cabinet shops and large manufactures, not contractors. If you have a small cabinet shop you should be able to set up an account. If not , ask a shop in your area if you can order through them, thats what I do. If you live else were in the US I'm sure you could find a large panel distributer that carries Panfibre.
A 4x8 3/4" sheet runs abought $25 a sheet. Did you know there is also a product called Ultralite that is 2/3 the weight of regular MDF, and a product called Medite that has no formaldihyde in it.
And then theres Kerfkore, Isoboard, Versawall, Beadboard and more. Alot of different products out there.
And no you are not going to find any of these products at the big box stores.
RE: different MDF products
Thanks for info; yep, I do know about Ultralite ( which I have not used), and Medite (which I have).
Are the others you mentioned agrifiber products (Kerfkore, Isoboard, Versawall, Beadboard)?
Maybe it would be useful to start a new thread on all these various fiber board products and what they're best used for. I will volunteer to write the question if you would be willing to provide a rundown.
The current issue of FWW arrived the day I finished building 3 MDF bedside tables. I tried the drywall mud idea and it has produced a great result with primed and painted finish.
Yesterday I picked up 9 sheets of MDF and once again I find myself faced with building sets for the spring children's muscial. I always use ULMDF and dope the edges with 2 coats of yellow glue 1:1 with water. I saw the artical using mud and was thinking about trying that. It seems a few of you have had success so I will give it a try.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
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