Sealing/sanding a Cherry Sunburst Tabletop with hard to sand spots
I am in the process of making a cherry sunburst tabletop. I veneered it with crotch cherry veneer, and it has turned out beautifully so far. Have not completely sanded it yet, though.
The problem is this: there are some tricky sections where the grain runs almost completely horizontally – parallel to the substrate – and it has a tendency to lift in large fibers and pull up when sanding – I fear that the fibers can actually lift out from the substrate completely, since this is very thin veneer. And I don’t want to sand through.
I have thought about sealing the wood before final sanding – but was hoping first to use an oil finish to “pop” the grain. The sealer will give a much flatter look. I tried a test piece with Minwax Sanding Sealer – a water based product designed for use under their oil-based finishes. It does an OK job, but probably won’t give as good a result as what I’m after in terms of bringing out the figure in the wood.
Should I proceed with the oil and use that as a sealer? Was thinking of sanding to 120 as best I can, then oil, then some further sanding before proceeding with further coats.
Looking for any advice here. I’ve spent a good bit of effort on the tabletop and want not to mess up the sanding and finish!!
Thanks,
JV
Replies
Seal
I've never tried sealing the wood before sanding but have heard of folks sealing with glue size before sanding ? I would just sand the raw wood carefully with a 280 garnet paper
SA
Here is the way many professional deal with sanding veneers.
It's best to not sand plywood except with 180 grit and sand by hand. Get the first coat of finish on and then sand with 320. That way you are sanding the finish, not the wood. This avoids sanding through today's very thin surface veneer. When you have a veneer that has lots of grain changes in direction, use a card cabinet scraper. Scrape very softly and in the direction of the grain. Be sure to sharpen your scraper and keep it sharp.
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