I have a teak shower bench that I want to finish so that the wood is sealed and the mildew won’t get in the grain of the wood. Thank you for your suggestions.
Redoy
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Replies
Teak doesn't "need" to be finished, it naturally repels water due to the natural oils in it. If you want to finish it, I would use some type of "oil-finish" these finishes are basically oil, polyurethane and mineral spirits, like Danish oil (you can make your own. The oil and poly mixture get absorbed, and it will harden to protect the wood with a low sheen.
I appreciate your comment but I did that with teak oil on our first one yet still the mildew turned the wood black in places. We would scrub it painstakingly and apply another coat of oil but the problem continued. We’ve gotten a new one and that’s why I’m looking for a solution to prevent the same thing from happening.
In my experience, what you describe is not "sealed". It may be coated, but falls short of being sealed. If this is a shower bench, you may be fighting this issue forever if you don't have proper ventilation. The wood needs to dry, if it stays wet, mold will grow.
Teak can be finished with the same products as most other woods. It will not rot if left unfinished but will turn gray and mildew will get in the grain and require frequent cleaning . Oils will require new coats every so often and will still allow for fungus to develop at the first occasion. Several coats of spar varnish should last a long time if applied properly and the wood wiped with acetone prior to the first thinned down coat.
Concur on the acetone. Norm Abrams recommended it when he glued teak, so I assume it would apply to finishing it. He also said it was hell on jointer blades, but that's another story.
It is hard on steel blades but carbide seems unaffected by teak.
I haven’t tried this but the article looked promising for a highly water resistant finish.
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2009/05/13/the-ultimate-outdoor-finish
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