Replies

1. 
   MarkRD | Mar 20, 2005 01:03am | #1

   I believe there is an active thread on this saw in "Knots." Use the advanced search button (on the left of the screen near the top).

   If it's the same saw, then the early reviews are quite good.

   M.

   Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.

2. 
   Dustmight | Mar 20, 2005 03:00am | #2

   Hi Joe and welcome! The 22124 has been getting alot of attention since before Christmas, and lots of people have bought them since then. Seems to be a great saw for the money when on sale, has alot of nice features, and really fills a home shop niche.

   I read very few complaints about the many machines that have been sold. About the only repeat issue I hear much about is the laminate extension table being warped....fairly minor deal. That's a Biesemeyer provided table that has similar problems on the Delta saws (including the Unisaw) that use the same table.

   A friend of mine picked one up Sunday night....he couldn't be happier. There's a bunch of owners over at Woodnet.net if you'd like more feedback.

3. 
   Lightman | Mar 20, 2005 03:21pm | #3

   Hey Joe,

    I have the 22124. Got it last November. Couple k bf across it so far. No problems, no complaints. I'm the only fool around that pd full price, but I'm happy with the saw so no big deal. Take a look at that other thread. One guy got his for around $600 w/all the discounts. Considering the Bessie fence is $300, that makes it a heck of a deal.

   Good luck and let us know how good a deal ya got.....yes you can rub it in...

   Jimmy

   as always I wish you enough

1. 
   Dustmaker1 | Mar 26, 2005 02:21pm | #16

   I finally ordered my Craftsman 09221240 table saw yesterday, and after going to two Sears stores, finally got the discounted price. The first store would not honor the Craftsmans Club 10% dicount coupon, so I went to another store and got it on sale for $ 849 ( reg price is $949) less the 10% Craftsman Club coupon, less another 10% rebate and free delivery to my house. I think my final price was about $680. I took the 3 year extended warrantee, so that added about $59 to the price. I think I made out pretty well, and now I'm waiting for my saw delivery and hope everything goes well there.   --------------- Joe 

1. 
   Dustmight | Mar 26, 2005 02:58pm | #17

   Sounds like you did great Joe! Congrats and be safe with your new acquisition.

2. 
   adastra | Mar 27, 2005 01:56am | #18

   Hey Joe, Wondering if you would post a follow up. I'm very curious about this saw and would like to know how it does on bevel cuts after you get it tuned up. I'm sure if you read this forum you're aware of the relationships necessary between the blade, miter slots, and rip fence.Just kind of want an A/B of cut quality comparison when you heel the blade versus when you have it at 90 degrees.I think that this saw might be "enough" saw for a small custom shop but I want to find out if their trunnion design has stabilized the blade any better than a regular contractors. Usually they twist on bevel cuts and give poor cuts, but cab saws eliminate this problem with much more stable trunnions.None of the reviews I've seen cover whether this saw really is in between a contractor and a cabinet or if its just a contractor (albeit a very nice one) made to look like a cab saw.I don't want to get into the whole "trunnions mounted to the cabinet thing" if someone reads this. I know that makes it easier to adjust I'm just really curious if it is more stable in those situations when the saw is tested.Send me message if you think about it.

1. 
   Dustmaker1 | Mar 27, 2005 02:16pm | #19

   Hi Adastra,

   I haven't gotten delivery of my saw yet. I expect it sometime next week. After that I'll need to run a dedicated line ( either 110V or 220V ) to the saw location , so it may be sometime before I can answer that question. I would hope that the trunnions would be a little beefier than on a contractors saw. There are others on this forum who already have a set up, working saw and might  have the answer to your question.   ------------------ Joe    

    

    

1. 
   bladeburner | Mar 27, 2005 04:01pm | #20

   Hello, Joe

   If you're going to run a line anyway, go ahead and make it 220V if your run is going to to be 50' or more to take care of line loss. Mine is 35' so I'm fine at 110V.

   Hello Adastra,

   I built a bunch of planter boxes in Jan. using compound miter cuts and the saw showed no change in attitude. But my TS usage averages 1 hr/day as a hobbyist, although a couple of weeks ago I pushed lumber through it for 5 hours straight.

   Joe

    

2. 
   Dustmaker1 | Mar 27, 2005 05:25pm | #21

   Hi Joe,

   I'm kind of leaning toward running two lines. One a 220V, 30 Amp to take care of the saw and any other high load tools and another a 110 V , 20 Amp line for less demanding 110 V power tools like router, drill press, band saw etc.  I'm in a new home where the garage only has two 110 V , 15 Amp outlets, and they are on the same circuit as the lights and other household things like the water softener etc.

   Thanks for the advice---------- the other Joe 

3. 
   adastra | Mar 27, 2005 10:45pm | #22

   Joe,Thanks for the notice. I was just thinking since you'll be setting it up usually its a good time to check that aspect of performance.Good suggestion about posting a question regarding the performance. Might eventually have to just buy the thing and see if it is a furnituremaker's saw or not. If I could find a used PM 66 or General lefty I know I can't go wrong but those are scarce in the Kansas City area. Most used tools in this area are Craftsman contractors.It seems like most are thrilled with whatever they buy, do things like the "nickel test". If a saw is vibrating enough to rattle something off the top there is a problem. Most portable table saws would pass this test, it amazes me that people do that and think it means something.If the arbor design on the Craftsman is sound then I think one could just replace the motor down the road if a power feeder were going to be used. I'll have to check if its a standard frame.I don't doubt that the new Craftsman is a good tool, looks like they put some thought into it. I also second the opinion about the 220 line. If your are running a new line might as well do your motors a favor and run 220.

2. 
   chipo | Apr 07, 2005 12:15am | #23

   I have the 22114 (the mid-range of the three models), and that's about my only complaint. With the blade tilted to 45°, the trunnions are very slightly out of alignment. I believe this is because the motor is hung from the rear trunnion and the arbor and tilt screw are on the front one, and the weight of the motor puts a hell of a lot of torque on the rails connecting the trunnions.In practice, it means the splitter is slightly out of alignment with the blade on 45° bevels, but careful adjustment of the splitter makes that not a problem.

1. 
   adastra | Apr 07, 2005 01:48am | #24

   Thanks, thats exactly what I was concerned about.I've since pretty much ended my flirtation with this tool. Too good to be true usually is.Not that I don't think its a decent tool, but there are some things I need a table saw to do that require a more stable carriage design.I had thought maybe one of the new hybrids might do it but it looks like a cabinet saw is really what is needed for my situation.

4. 
   bladeburner | Mar 20, 2005 03:49pm | #4

   I got mine (22124) in Dec.. great tool. It's made by some ex Delta people (Orion) in China. True home shop saw.

1. 
   Dustmaker1 | Mar 20, 2005 06:20pm | #5

   Mark,SliversRus, Jimmy, Joe

     Thanks for your prompt replies. Based upon all of the positive reports that I'm getting from all of you, I'm planning to drive down to Sears today or tomorrow to actually look at a displayed saw. The sale goes till 3/26, so I only have a few days to make up my mind. I hope that delivery to my garage is not a hassle. I'm looking forward to getting a good table saw so that I may start on some of the projects that I have in mind. I saw a good buffet plan in a recent issue of Woodsmith that I'd like to tackle.

   Thanks again ------------ Joe

1. 
   MarkRD | Mar 20, 2005 10:23pm | #6

   Best of luck. Post pictures when you are done.Thanks,
   Mark

   Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.

5. 
   shoptime | Mar 21, 2005 04:19am | #7

   I got the 22124 in late January.  I really like it.  I had been using a 2 HP Delta unisaw with a 50" fence, so I miss the longer fence a little bit.  But the Bies fence is really nice.  I have a smaller shop now so the 22124 is on a mobile base that works out pretty well.  My Sears salesman gave me an extra $50 off the advertised price of $902 (a couple months ago) and I got the 10% Club discount.  I went back a couple weeks ago with the 10% off coupon for signing up for the on-line service and they applied that to my saw.  So my net price was about $723.  I had to pick it up myself, and it was quite a load to handle by myself, but I managed.  The only non-standard situation I found is that the miter scale is off 1 degree on one end or the other.  I couldn't adjust it to make it right on both ends.  I wonder if anyone else has had this situation?

   If you get it, I think you'll really like it.

1. 
   Lightman | Mar 21, 2005 02:20pm | #8

   I will ck mine. I so little use the mitre gauge. I have a sliding crosscut table I made and I make my mitre cuts on it.

   Jimmy

   as always I wish you enough

1. 
   shoptime | Mar 23, 2005 02:32am | #12

   I mis-spoke (not enough shoptime lately!).  It's not the miter gage, it's the bevel or tilt scale for the blade that is off 1 degree.  Anybody else notice this?

1. 
   Lightman | Mar 23, 2005 01:32pm | #13

   I only adjusted the 0' . I can't get rid of my old adjustable 45' square I been using for years. I never had a TS that I trusted the scale anyway. So if mine had the problem I wouldn't know it. That's if I have to be real accurate. If it's something that is all, say, 7' then I may set it with the scale. I can't see 1' off if everything is 1' off. Everything will fit.

   Just my 2 cents

   Jimmy

   as always I wish you enough

1. 
   shoptime | Mar 24, 2005 05:24am | #14

   Good input.  When something has to be dead-on, it's probably worth the extra effort to get a better measurement of the angle. 

2. 
   Dustmaker1 | Mar 21, 2005 04:42pm | #9

   Thanks for your comments. By the way, what was the on- line service you subscribed to for which they gave you an extra 10% off?  I liked to be well informed before I go to the store and talk to a salesman.  ------------ Joe

1. 
   bladeburner | Mar 22, 2005 12:21am | #10

   Craftsman Club

   see sears and you should be able to find it.

2. 
   shoptime | Mar 23, 2005 02:29am | #11

   THe extra 10% came by signing up through the Craftsman Club for some e-newsletter.  You should be able to link to it from the Craftsman Club page using your membership number.

   Good luck.

3. 
   bladeburner | Mar 24, 2005 04:03pm | #15

   I looked at mine yesterday with a 30 deg angle and it's close enough. You've noticed that the pointer sets off about 1/2 " and can easily produce parallex. But I just pushed it in and it was on the mark. Granted, the mark is at least 1/4 deg thick.

4. 
   taf3435 | Apr 14, 2005 08:11pm | #25

   Which mobile base are you using with your 22124 table saw?  Any issues with it?

   Edited 4/14/2005 1:20 pm ET by Tim F.

1. 
   shoptime | Apr 16, 2005 01:50am | #26

   I'm using the HTC2000.  Before I had the 22140 I had the Ridgid 3650.  The hurculift system on that saw was awesome.  When I first got the 22140 on the HTC2000, it was a bit awkward and I thought I would be changing it out with a 3 wheel type.  As I've used it some, I've gotten used to it and it's ok.  If I were shopping from scratch, I'd look for a 3 wheel model - 2 rolling casters and 1 pivoting and locking caster.  I still think that is easier to move around, and once it's set down, it's as stable as a 4 wheel base.  If you get a 3 wheel model, let me know which one you get in case I decide to upgrade.  I could always used the HTC2000 on my drill press or band saw, which are both currently stationary.