Second thoughts on proportions with table and legs. Do I taper?
Hi,
I am building two of these tables for a client. They are 6’ by 3’, and 35” tall. The top is solid 3” wide boards glued up solid face to face. Edge grain showing combining Cherry, Jatoba, mahogany, and a little padauk to tie in the room, using various widths. The 4” wide border gives the table more depth optically and a cleaner look on the ends I glued the end pieces, which could be problematic long term vs bread boarding them.
These are big tables, and I usually nail the leg proportions. I’m not sure I have here….. They are 6” by 4 3/4”. These tables are all straight line. I’m not sure the taper is the right call. But I’m not loving the size of the legs at the top. My thought is to taper them on the face that faces down the length of the table vs. end of table. I can do both, but given the make up of the kegs it would cut through to other species. I’m not opposed. Thoughts?
Another option which messes up the overall length slightly would be to take an inch off each end inch off the legs and lose the border
These kegs are a good 24lbs. They are anchored using a modified Maloof joint, and draw bolts. I don’t anticipate any lack of strength that would require more, but if necessary I have a plan to cut into each leg where it’s flush with the bottom at the corner facing inward, about 1.5” deep. Then use a 4/4 board, cut the corner to match the mortise in the leg and glue. Then the board which will be flush with the bottom surface of the table top can be anchored with some screws and slotted holes to allow for movement. It would catch any racking taking pressure off the joint above. (Hope that made sense!). Thoughts on this? Trying to avoid a leg stretcher. Also any thoughts to doing hollow legs on this type of table in the future?
I’ve never used c channel in the bottoms of my tables of this type Goes against my belief system But not knowing the usage what are your thoughts? These tables already have a presence that’s formidable. What’s a few more pounds?
For finish I usually use Odie’s Oil or Rubio Monocoat. I’ve read one some of the new UV light finishes, and a bit on the ceramic. I’m not a fan of a film here but open to ideas.
Thanks for reading my post, and hopefully making sense of my descriptions. I appreciate the learning opportunity from your feedback.
Scott
Adding onto my earlier post, what do you think about taking an inch off each end? It would lessen the leg profile a bit.
Replies
Please convert your images to JPGs. I cannot open ".heic" files.... I can't be the only one.
Thanks for letting me know. Converted to jpeg
Regarding the need for tapering the legs.... Clearly the hefty legs are a design element on this table, and I think they look good. If I were to taper the legs, I would only do a slight taper, and only on the inside facing edges.
I won't address the structural question because I can't follow exactly what you're asking. A drawing may help (Or maybe I need a better attention span!)
I like oil/hard wax finishes, but my choice of finish would be based on how the table will be used. There are times when a film finish can be very nice if skillfully done. I'm not set up with a spray booth, so I tend to avoid - plus, I love the luster and warmth of the oil/wax finish.
Good luck!
Thank you for the insights.
My first thought was that it was a workbench because of the stout legs and top. Drawing out a taper on the inside edges of the legs on paper or SketchUp until it looks right would be my first task. Maybe a mock up would help. I wouldn't want too much of a taper for that heavy top.
In my mind, the decision to taper or not to taper depends on the space you're putting it in. In this case, tapering the legs may look mismatched with the rest of it.
It's a big, chunky look, which is popular. This takes that to the extreme, and there's nothing wrong with that.
It would look very out of place in most settings, but as long as it matches the rest, it would look great.
One of my favorite things about this and any crafting hobby is that there aren't rules. Anything can go. It all depends on the individual.
It's a big, bold piece, and I would want to build/design the rest of the room around it.
It also feels that it needs a lot of space surrounding it, or that style could make the space feel a little cramped.
A stupid suggestion, maybe...
Have you talked to the client? I think all this stuff should be worked out beforehand and along the way.
Ceramic coatings are great. I use the Blacktail Studio one, and it's a great option for coffee/end/office/dinner tables or anything that will be well-used. It offers excellent protection, especially from water. It also significantly enhances the contrast and sheen. It doesn't give that velvety, silky, soft touch that wax does, though. Its protection and durability are far superior. Something to discuss with the client really. what do they prefer?
Can be re-applied very easily.
I also give the whole kit to the client. When I deliver, I show them how to apply, and then they can add it themselves as the years go by, as well as their other furniture. Gives them an added value feeling too.
I'd stay away from hollow legs.
Part of that style is the heft. People want and expect to feel that weight when buying this style. I would be dismayed to tap on it and hear the hollowness or to lift it and feel that it's off.
If you do go for hollow, I would definitely disclose that to the client. If not, they may also feel you skimped on them to save money, even if that's not at all what you did it for.
Great advice. This is one of those clients who likes to give lots of room for my discretion. While I like some room, it’s a problem when you can hang yourself.
Another thought was to take an inch off each end of the table. While I don’t think it would be noticeable in use, it might change the profile significantly. Thoughts?
Im currently working on a bar for someone exactly like that.
They mostly just want me to do what i think is best.
I bring him options and ask him to decide though. I give my input but its his bar, his money.
I couldnt feel comfortable making critical choices without at the very least asking what he thinks first. Because as you said...Hanging ourselves lol.
He loves that i bring him options and ask for a selection.
So make it shorter by 2 inches? seems irrelevant to me.
I dont think id notice anything.
“The 4” wide border gives the table more depth optically and a cleaner look on the ends I glued the end pieces, which could be problematic long term vs bread boarding them.”
You got that part right. Breadboard ends would do no better given the leg attachment.
Failure to give consideration to wood movement when designing a piece is a recipe for disaster.
My apologies for the unwelcome but honest advice.
Good luck
Breadboards would have been better, but only if you built the table in winter. Gaps would open at the legs in summer and close back up seasonally. I agree with Rob, I fear for the well being of that end board.
For the taper question get a fat roll of masking tape and tape-er it off so you can stand back and see if you like it.
Tapering through the faces and exposing the other species would IMO be a bad look.. I just don't think you could get them to match or get the reveal lines straight, even if you like the idea of it.
I’m going to redo the end pieces.
The design of the table is almost industrial. Tapering the legs will likely look mismatched.
It is a substantial piece, dialing it back by tapering the legs will draw attention away from the primary design elements.
Now, depending on the taper and the finish, it could work but personally, I would leave it alone.