Replies

1. 
   dstevick | Aug 24, 2022 12:16pm | #1

   A nice option I have used is to make a small molding strip out the same type of wood as the cabinet doors and pin nail it on the inside of the door with a 23ga headless pin nailer. It makes it relatively easy to remove/replace the glass if need be.

1. 
   Bill_Ig | Aug 25, 2022 10:47pm | #10

   I did something similar to this but instead of pins used #2 (?) screws to fasten the moldings. Very slowly and carefully.

2. 
   jpe52 | Sep 02, 2022 12:02pm | #12

   Plus 1 on the molding strips + pin nailer. Moreover, as I know from
   personal experience, they are easily removable and replaceable. Not
   a fan of silicone...

2. 
   oxmach | Aug 24, 2022 12:17pm | #2

   I use a thin bead of silicone between the glass and door frame rabbet to prevent rattles. The glass is secured with thin batons of the same wood as the door and mitred on the corners for a clean look. Secure the batons with small brads. Easy to pop off is glass needs to be replaced.
   Edit…was typing when 👆 posted.

1. 
   Deleted | Sep 03, 2022 08:13am | #13

   “[Deleted]”

3. 
   _mj_ | Aug 24, 2022 12:23pm | #3

   This is what is used in framing shops... much less visible:

   https://www.jerrysartarama.com/fletcher-framemaster-point-driver

4. 
   jc_clark | Aug 24, 2022 12:36pm | #4

   I just use a bead of silicone sealer

   
5. 
   pantalones868 | Aug 24, 2022 12:54pm | #5

   Is the rabit deeper than the thickness of the glass? Enough for a wooden stop?
   Glazers push points? I've never found silicone to be completely reliable for anything. It's flexible enough to allow for the glass to be able to expand probably ,it would do alot to eliminate rattle but I would want some kind of mechanical fastener to secure the glass. Push pins would be almost invisible.

1. 
   john_c2 | Aug 24, 2022 03:52pm | #6

   I wouldn't use just silicone either. Add some glaziers points as well,if you go that route.

   But, I'd use wood quarter rounds to retain the glass.

6. 
   user-210490 | Aug 24, 2022 05:41pm | #7

   I don't know if Rockler still carries it, but I used a spline type material that was a dark brown color and it had "barbs" all along it that fit into the rabbet behind the glass. It's not visible from the front and in the back it's very neat and even.

7. 
   pantalones868 | Aug 24, 2022 05:44pm | #8

   There ya go a long decorative pushpoint!

8. 
   rob_ss | Aug 25, 2022 06:53pm | #9

   Using a small wooden bead secured with 23ga pin nails is best as it looks good and can be removed to replace the glass should it break.

9. 
   geedubbee | Sep 02, 2022 10:47am | #11

   Another silicone user here. This is a carry over from when we used to mount speakers in cabinets this way. A few beads are good for a door. A continuous bead around an object seated in a rabbet has substantial holding power. If you are looking to avoid the look of clips, with care the silicone is nearly invisible.

10. 
    eddo234 | Sep 03, 2022 08:32am | #14

    I personally would never use a silicone bead, it looks like an afterthought or a cheap patch to me. We’ve always used molding strips, the same wood as the door, usually square, but sometimes with the same ogee or thumbnail as the front, attached with brads. When you open the door it looks as professional on the back as on the front.

11. 
    kevinjmay25 | Sep 03, 2022 09:52pm | #15

    I just created some glass doors, for the first time ever, and I just used these basic clear plastic hold-down clips. I had to sand down the nub on them because my glass was almost level with the wood I was attaching it to. Used 4 and it's holding it in there good. Plus, you can't really see them from the outside... except maybe at an angle. I used frosted glass so that helped hide it also.

    
12. 
    bergenfurniture | Oct 07, 2022 06:14am | #17

    You can use silicone beads to secure the glass but don’t go with that alone. In addition to running a bead of silicone across the inside opening edge, add glazing points for extra support. Finally, push the spikes into the wood using a putty knife or a towel and things will work well.

13. 
    ct_engineer | Oct 07, 2022 11:35am | #18

    I haven't had to address your issue, but I have thought about it. I don't like silicone for a number or reasons: it yellows with time, sticks really hard to wood but still separates with expansion/contraction.

    I like the idea of wrapping the edges of the glass with clear acrylic tape, about 1/2-in wide. That would not add much added thickness to the glass and would help deaden rattling as well as protect the glass. Finish up with battens, molding or clips as you wish.

    One product I found:

    https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Mounting-Removable-Residue-Weather-Resistant/dp/B0749B61V1/ref=sr_1_9?crid=1C4UYF7H8PF94&keywords=clear+plastic+tape+1%2F2+inch&qid=1665156494&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjQ0IiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=clear+plastic+tape+1%2F2+inch%2Caps%2C96&sr=8-9

14. 
    rob_ss | Sep 03, 2022 11:35pm | #16

    Not really. Expansion around the glass is essentially zero as the dimensions are determined by long grain. The door will expand and contract away from the glass. It is prudent to leave a gap though as once cut, it is difficult to reduce glass in size slightly. It is also tough to cut to absolutely perfect dimensions - even my glazier will be up to 2mm out on some cuts.