I’m a novice woodworker looking to buy a bowsaw. As this will be my primary saw-I live in an apartment- I’m wondering if I should buy a 400mm, 500mm or 600mm. I’ve been told to get a 400mm. I’m also wondering if I can get away with using a combination universal rip and jigging blade as opposed to buying two separate blades. I plan to use the saw for making clock cases. Any suggestions?
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Replies
How big are the clock cases? Are they tall case clocks? Small book shelf clocks? I'll change my answer based on yours.
Adam
I intend to build mostly wall clocks, about 30-35 inches in length. I guess I'm looking for a saw that will allow me to do some all around work, too. Ripping smaller boards to width and some joinery. I want to do this all by hand. Is that possible with one saw. Maybe a better way to ask: If you could have only one saw to do do some smaller projects in your apartment, what would it be?
The chief advantage of a frame saw is that very little steel or steel of very poor quality can be used. The disadvantage of a frame saw is that you are limited in the width of rip operations and cross cuts by the frame. Since the blade length is typically comparable to a western saw, you may find the frame saw requires a bit more space to use than a western saw. So you may find yourself hitting the wall while crosscutting with your frame saw.So for the one best saw, there is no such thing. I heard a comedian once say that people with futons get the best sleep. Because after one night on a futon, you go out and buy the most expensive mattress there is. Remember- you're going to be supplying the power, for what will inevitably be a tool ill suited to 75% of the jobs you are doing. But on the upshot, you could buy or make a single frame (I recommend make) and purchase several different blades. The trick (as I suspect you know) is that the optimized length varies. Let's just look at the operations and I'll recommend a few saws:
Ripping hardwoods 4/4 and thinner- (depending on your height 24-28" 8tpi rip)
You could try increasing this saw's rake (which will make it cut rip slower) and using it to cross cut. As a cross cut saw, its a bit too coarse and it will leave a nasty edge.
Cross cutting- you want a shorter saw, 18-20" 10-12 tpi x-cutJoinery- I think its good to have two joinery saws, one rip, one cross cut:
1) 14-16" backsaw filed x-cut 12tpi
2) Some sort of smallish rip back saw like the LN carcass saw which you can also cut DT's with. It may also be a good idea to have a tiny 8-9" back saw- for clocks you could get away with a gent's saw (really for both rip back saws- get one large, one small)Scroll work I really love my 12" turning saw for scroll work, but you could probably get away with a standard coping saw.Above is a collection of saws that will do what you need without compromise. I think you'll get frustrated with frame saws. I know I did. But just to humor you (its your question) we could try to reduce that list, de-optimizing slightly.So one 600mm frame with a fine rip and a fine cross cut blade, both hovering in the 10 tpi range might be a good start for you. You could add the tiny back saws or a longer, coarser western rip saw later. The problem you are going to face with this saw is you won't be able to crosscut stock much wider than 12" with it. But assuming you'll not work with wide stock, this should be fine for you.Lastly, let me just add my protest for the validity of your question. If you want to work efficiently with hand tools, its crazy to skimp on saws. Skimp on planes. You can make a project without planes, but you can't make much without saws. Sawing is also a lot more work and a lot less fun than planing, so it makes sense to have good, efficient saws. I have probably 20 saws in my shop and I regularly use 6-8 of those. I could probably work with 4 or 5, but I think I'd be frustrated. Saws take up so little space and are so cheap second hand, I don't see any valid reason not to have several.Adam
Thanks for your thoughtful reply. I found it very helpful.
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