Replies

1. 
   DougF | Aug 16, 2005 04:33pm | #1

   Mix only enough for this project.  Once mixed and exposed to air, the material begins to set.

2. 
   Dave45 | Aug 16, 2005 04:36pm | #2

   First, I would mix just enough to run some tests on scraps so I can see how the finished product will look.  Make note of the proportions so you can duplicate it if it's what you want - or "tweak" the formula if you need to.

   I probably wouldn't try to store the mixture for very long.  Mineral spirits (paint thinner) evaporates pretty quickly and that will change the mixture.

1. 
   Billinvt | Aug 16, 2005 04:47pm | #3

   Dave45, DougF; Thanks for your quick replies. I will mix up a small portion tonight to test on scraps and adjust the recipe accordingly.

1. 
   CJH | Aug 16, 2005 04:55pm | #4

   How long does it take the poly to fully amber? I also want to wipe a finish on maple but strongly dislike the amber look.Is there a specific oil and poly combo that is most clear or should I just use waterborne?

1. 
   BG | Aug 16, 2005 05:06pm | #5

   CJH,
   There was an article evlauating wipe-on poly in the last issue of FWW...and that was one of the criteria (if I'm understanding your question correctly). I used the Minwax which was rated the best and fairly low in the coloration department on maple...one week later it's pretty light in color...very little amber. I peceeded the wipe-on with a couple of coats of danish oil(varnish based).

1. 
   CJH | Aug 16, 2005 05:27pm | #6

   I guess what I really want to know is how I should wait on my test piece before I decide it's okay. Will the poly continue to turn amber a month down the road? Two months?

2. 
   DougF | Aug 16, 2005 08:47pm | #9

   Dave responded to the answer regarding tung and linseed oil darkened wood.  Sometimes that is desirable particularly with woods like cherry.  The water-based finishes will not yellow, or hardly at all, but the wood will darken naturally with age through the process of oxidation.  Some woods oxidize and darken more and faster than others and maple probably least of all.   

2. 
   Dave45 | Aug 16, 2005 06:04pm | #8

   I can't speak about any "home-brew" finishes, but straight water based poly dries crystal clear and straight oil based poly has an amber tone - which shows up pretty quickly.

   I would also expect that the linseed oil will darken your wood.

3. 
   HowardAcheson | Aug 16, 2005 05:49pm | #7

   What you have "brewed" is an oil/varnish mixture similar to Watco or Minwax Tung Oil Finish.  You apply it the same way.  Wipe it or brush it on and keep it wet for 15-20 minutes.  Then wipe it as dry as you can get it.  Let it fully dry overnight and do it again the next day.  To get a smoother finish, you can wet sand the second coat while wet using 320 W&D paper.  Then wipe it dry.

   The point is that the finish you have made up it not a thinned wiping varnish like the Minwax Wipe-on that did well in the FWW article.  Wiping varnish is made by thinning standard varnish 50/50 with mineral spirits.  It is wiped on like the kid at Denny's wipes your table.  It is not wiped off, rather it is let dry to the touch and then recoated.  5-6 coats is required to get a protective film finish.

   Howie.........