Replies

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Dec 20, 2005 02:30am | #1

   Water attacks ordinary PVA like Titebond.   To help get the water in there, perhaps you can drill a hole into the joint from the top, where the hole will eventually be hidden.  You'll likely need to resand the area afterwards.

1. 
   grainwise | Dec 20, 2005 04:02am | #2

   Drill the hole as mentioned by Jamie, but use vinegar instead of water. It may take a few minutes, but it'll work. This also works with TB II, but don't know about TB III.-Kevin

2. 
   h12721 | Dec 20, 2005 05:27am | #3

   Use a heat gun. Comes off easy

   Hilmar

3. 
   forestgirl | Dec 24, 2005 09:45am | #4

   "Brain freeze."  Great description.  Had one myself, a few days ago, glued together a shadow-box style frame before cutting the rabbets for the back.  Sheesh!  That was with TB-III though, no ungluing for that one.  Have to get brave with the big router and a rabbeting bit.  Screwed my Christmas cheer all to heck.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

   
   

   ---

   Edited 12/24/2005 1:46 am by forestgirl

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 05, 2006 04:58pm | #5

   Boy, this was a good place for using hide glue.  The block would not have needed to be clamped, and would have been somewhat easier to remove.  The danger of using high tech glues is exactly that if you need to repair it it is difficult.  Moreover, PVA glues don't stick to themselves so the replaced part must be fully cleaned off, as must the part it is being attached to.  New hide glue can reactive the old. 

4. 
   jazzdogg | Jan 12, 2006 09:47pm | #6

   Hi David,

   Wrapping the joint in steaming hot rags can help; when we're working with woods like oak that have a high tanin content we use distilled water to prevent discoloration.

   When gentle persuasion is not enough, reverse the head on a clamp - turning it into a spreader - and apply moist heat using the wand of a garment steamer; the clamp pressure is g-r-a-d-u-a-l-l-y increased as the glue succumbs to the application of "steam."

   Good luck,

   -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

5. 
   DonC | Jan 18, 2006 05:42pm | #7

   Hide glue is messy,sticky,has to be dissolved in advance of need,has short shelf life after being mixed,smells bad in a short time,requires a double boiler. The only advantage I can see is for "rub" gluing like your application needed and it's reversable.

   This is why I have switched back to White glue. It holds just fine and is the easiest to seperate if desired. It only disadvantage is, squeese out will foul sandpaper. I solve this by never sanding squeeze out. I scrape it off when the glue gels.

   Experiment with White glue. Make a mortise and tenon with white and yellow. Break them....the difference is insignifigant. White is also the best for veneering when you coat substrate and veneer, let dry,and re-activate with an iron.

1. 
   mike4244 | Jan 19, 2006 07:36am | #9

   You listed all the bad points of hot hide glue. Here is a couple of advantages, just as strong as white or yellow glue in furniture applications. Ground glue before mixing with water will last many years. reversible, will take a stain, gap filling .Perfect for veneering, can be applied over substrate,left to cool and ironed on when you have time. I make chess tables and boards,I use hide glue to glue the veneers to the mdf substrate. When ripping my own veneer, I join one face of the wood on a jointer. Then resaw the veneer 3/32 or so thick. After I have a bunch of veneer strips, I glue them with the good side down on to a piece of mdf used as a sled. I run the sled thru the planer, to 1/16" thick. Then heat the veneers up with a heat gun and peel them off. Try  planing to a 1/16" any other way and you will wind up with splinters, once in a while I splinter a veneer. I use an $8.00 small Rival crockpot for a glue pot and a candy thermometer to make sure I don't cook it too hot.

   Also with difficult glue ups you can apply hot hide glue and hold the pieces together, after a few minutes you can let go. This works well with light moldings or with larger pieces if they are self supporting and the glue justs holds a miter together.

   Clamps are not necessary for edge gluing, many times just pinch dogs are enough to hold the boards together after rubbing the joint. Excess glue peels off clean when still rubbery. If you wait til the glue is hard, it still peels off easier than other glues. Plus you can heat a board with a heat gun to remove any excess blobs if they are hard coming off.

   mike

6. 
   AlanMikkelsen | Jan 18, 2006 06:30pm | #8

   Several (many) years ago I did the same thing.  I ended up buying a Milwaukee heat gun to take apart a joint that was 6"x6" and glued with Titebond II.  I haven't had to take apart any other joints, but I sure have a great heat gun that I now use from time to time for other things! 

   Alan & Lynette Mikkelsen, Mountain View Farm, est. 1934,  Gardens & Fine Woodworking, St. Ignatius, MT

7. 
   SoarThumb | Jan 21, 2006 12:11am | #10

   Hi,

   I recently had a messy glue up with some titebond III and I discovered with horror that I didn't protect the metal rods of my Bessey clamps...

   After banging my head against the wall for the rest of the afternoon I contacted a Titebond rep who told me to heat the glue with a heat gun to around 150ºF to soften the glue.  Worked like a charmed.

   ST.

8. 
   giametti | Jan 25, 2006 06:20am | #11

   Denatured alcohol will crystalize the glue. Try injecting alcohol with a syringe into the joint. Try wiggling the joint while injecting the alcohol and you may need to drill a few small holes into the joint for access. It may take a while but you should get it apart eventually.

   Jim Eddy

   http://www.jameseddywoodworks.com

9. 
   forestgirl | Jan 26, 2006 09:30am | #12

   I'm sure you've already solved the problem by now, but just wanted to report:  I used De-Glue Goo for the first time today, on Titebond III no less, and while I wasn't deconstructing a joint, still, it worked admirably.  You might want to keep a bottle around, in case of another brain freeze.

   http://www.vandykes.com/product/02348098/

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   Do unto others as you tell them they should do unto you....