Replies

1. 
   SantaBarbaraSawDust | May 07, 2006 09:53pm | #1

   When you say "inline" I'm assuming you would hook up one DC to the exhaust port of the other DC. I'm not sure you would gain much from that, considering the air from the second DC would need to suck through the entire DC in front of it. What I would be inclined to do is run them in tandem, with a wye on your main line to separate them. This will give you more volume of air being moved through your ducts without the friction loss of running one DC through the other.

   Terry
   Santa Barbara,CA
2. 
   user-157257 | May 21, 2006 03:10pm | #2

   I wonder what would happen if you put a blower at the end of the run to increase air flow where it lags the most. I never tried it but only have my DC hooked to my table saw and worry about hooking it to multiple tools might make it ineffective. I may eventually try it but might be worth a shot.

3. 
   PeteBradley | May 21, 2006 09:37pm | #3

   Dig around this forum and OWWM for more on hazards to this approach. You'd think that one would "help" the other, but the net effect can be to overload the downstream DC.

   Here's a thread on OWWM that has several relevant posts:

   http://discussion.oldwwmachines.com/ThreadDetail.asp?ID=56906&ParentID=56903

   Pete

   
   

   ---

   Edited 5/21/2006 2:42 pm ET by PeteBradley

4. 
   mysticgoldtoy | May 22, 2006 08:09pm | #4

   When you have plenty of time to read & digest what he has to say Please read  Bill Pentz' web site.  He was driven by health issues & his woodworking desire to exhaustive & excellent research.  The folks who legitimately sell his cyclone design put a 5 hp. Leeson motor on top.  It takes some simple putting together rather than the competition's slick factory complete stuff but the $800 cost is a fraction of the competition and the satisfaction I've had with my "Clearvue" system is wonderful.  I would draw your attention specifically to his section on air volume & speed.  His research & explanation I think will be very helpful to you.  Be ware of folks who recommend decreasing the size of main run the farther it runs and/or decreasing pipe size as it leaves the main run.  Bill recommends six inch main run AND six inch drops to each machine down sizing or using short, high grade flex at the last possible point to connect to the machine.  My shop is in our walk-out basement, 15 x 40.  The Cyclone serves several machines & does a fine job with two blast gates open. I leave only one open while working at the lathe.

1. 
   slimjim | May 22, 2006 11:36pm | #5

   It's funny what you posted. I spent hours reading his site a week ago and it just makes too much sense. I decided to just order the clearvue when the shop is near completion. For the money, and what everyone is saying, it kicks a$$. Thanks to everyone who posted.

1. 
   mysticgoldtoy | May 23, 2006 06:47pm | #6

   As you read in on the Bill Pentz site for ducting material he recommends welded steel I have to think partially with tongue in cheek and 2ndly the light weight plastic sewer & drain 2729 pipe.  Some of the plumbing shops in my area didn't even recognize the term S&D 2729.  I priced the system for my basement shop in welded steel & found my Powermatic Lathe & SawStop Cabinet saw combined had cost less.  Here in rural Kansas finding the pipe & fittings was a frustrating adventure.  The trouble is finding the right people to talk to.  It was through my brother-in-law's Heating & Air suppliers I stumbled on to one that carried it.  I also picked up a source out of Texas for long radius 90's.  You can't order from the manufacturer unless you are teaming up with others to share a pallet of pipe (30 pieces X 8 ft.).  The reason to find the 6" pipe locally is shipping.  Ship it on a truck & double the cost.  You would have to ask the supplier to cut it in half to ship it UPS...4' limit.  My sources:  Salina Supply.  300 N. Sante Fe, Salina, Ks 67401.  ph 785-823-2221.  They had the 6" pipe (green), a few Wey's & no long radius 90's.  (I had tried to order from their factory supplier in Nebraska).  Salina Supply might be willing to help you get in touch with a factory person to find someone in your area they ship to.  I found (thanks to folks on Knots) the following for long radius 90's & Wey's:  Jessie Parrish, C/O Johnson-Burks, 581 E. Larar, Sherman, TX 75090.  ph 903-892-6148.  I called them & had the shipment on my door step in 4 days.  I ordered 25 feet of flex hose (free shipping over $100 purchase) from Oneida in spite of how abusively the sales person talked about Bill's research.  I wouldn't have but I was having trouble finding the high grade, smooth interior stuff at competitive prices elsewhere.  A word to dispell bad guessing.  I was told I could use fittings of other descriptions (thicknesses) with my 6" S&D 2729.  Salina supply had the other, heavier grades & I got to see for myself.  S&D pipe will go into the fittings, but would require a whole lot of caulking to fill the gapping bad fit.  I had all but concluded S&D 2729 was unobtainable.  Don't give up.  I bought mine earlier this year.

1. 
   slimjim | May 23, 2006 11:46pm | #8

   Thanks alot for the phone numbers and contacts, it seems like it was a real pain to traick down!

2. 
   daryl | May 24, 2006 08:27pm | #9

   Finding ductwork that worked well was a pain. Also expensive. I finally ordered the who kit and kaboodle from Oneida. By the time I was done, it cost more than my cyclone (which was a Woodsucker--works well but I think Larry is out of business).Oneida made it easy. And their flex hose, while expensive, is great. For a few bucks less (but not much less) Wilke has a smooth walled flex as well that is pretty good.

5. 
   WillGeorge | May 23, 2006 07:18pm | #7

   Is it possible to install a 1hp "booster" YEP! I move my saw outside and let my neighbors complain about the dust!