Replies

1. 
   Rich14 | Feb 28, 2007 08:29pm | #1

   Rooms,

   Don't know which article you mean, but we sure could put together a series of "instructions" here.

   What finish are you intending to use? What wood are you using? What final effect are you after? It makes quite a bit of difference.

   Rich

1. 
   Rooms | Mar 01, 2007 02:06am | #3

   Rich,

   It's for a little class I'll be teaching, so it must be general enough for a variety of situations.

   What I remember, it was a flow chart type of deal. Perhaps it was not in Fine Woodworking.

   Thanks

   Rooms

1. 
   Rich14 | Mar 01, 2007 02:09am | #4

   Sort of like a decison tree?

   Let me give that a little thought.

   Rich

1. 
   Rooms | Mar 01, 2007 02:18am | #5

   Rich,

   Yes, that is the idea.

   If waterbase dye, raise grain first.

   If prone to blotching, conditioner/sanding sealer.

   If resinous or tropical woods (ie teak, colobolo,) special sealers

   Regards.

   Rooms

1. 
   user-83153 | Mar 01, 2007 02:30am | #6

   Rooms,

     If there isn't such an article, there should be. It would be a tremendous help to beginners. You might try to google the AWI article that was mentioned earlier. They do have some really useful information. I was just looking at some of their documents yesterday and they even specify what size gaps are allowable in doors and drawers for their different grades of woodwork. I am paraphrasing but it was along these lines: Economy grade= 1/8" gaps, Standard grade=1/16" gaps, Custom grade= 1/32" gaps. All of these are the maximum allowed.

               Rob

2. 
   Kevin | Feb 28, 2007 08:35pm | #2

   No I don't remember it. But I will say that any sequential finishing steps are driven by the species of wood, the desired outcome and the type of finish selected. For example, raising the grain and then applying a sealer would be redundant with a nitrocellulose lacquer. A person could do both steps as distinctly separate steps in a nitro finish schedule, but it would be inefficient as heck because part of the point of the sealer is to lock in any raised fibers so that they can be knocked down via sanding. Pre-raising the grain doesn't entirely eliminate the issue of raised wood fibers. It's really more a technique for water-based finishes, particularly water-based stains or water-based clears when no stain is applied.

   I guess my point here would be that trying to use a generic finish schedule seems like it would be overly complicated for some types of finishes because there would be several largely pointless steps listed in a generic schedule.

   If you can find a copy at your local library then I would suggest finding and photocopying the "Factory Finishing" section (#1500) of the Architectural Woodworking Institute's guidelines. You'll find generic finish schedules for a variety of finishes (from simple oils to two-component Polyester and everything inbetween) and a bunch of other rather useful information.

   
   

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   Edited 2/28/2007 12:42 pm by Kevin

3. 
   RGJ | Mar 01, 2007 04:12pm | #7

   Room,

   You may want to look into an article written by Glen Huey, (Finishing Formulas) in the April addition of Popular Woodworking. It lists several step by step finishing processes/tips.

    

   RGJ

1. 
   Rooms | Mar 02, 2007 06:54pm | #13

   RGJ,

   Thanks for the info, I'll pick up a copy next time I'm out. Sounds good.

   Rooms

1. 
   RGJ | Mar 02, 2007 07:54pm | #14

   It was my pleasure sir. Please let us know how it works out for you.

    

   RGJ

1. 
   fgnoel | Mar 03, 2007 04:16am | #15

   There is an article in the August, 2005 issue of Woodworker's Jounal entitled "Critical Path to Finishing."  This might be what you are looking for.

   Frank

4. 
   peter28 | Mar 01, 2007 04:29pm | #8

   Rooms,

   Where are you teaching your class?

   Peter

1. 
   Rooms | Mar 01, 2007 04:54pm | #9

   Peter,

   I'm teaching this one in the SW Suburbs of Chicago.

   Regards

5. 
   terrylee86 | Mar 02, 2007 01:32am | #10

   I agree with RGJ about that article by Glen Huey in Popular Woodworking. He goes into enough detail for the experienced finisher and makes it simple enough for the novice. He readily admits that his favorite finish is still thinned out spar varnish wiped on with a lint free rag. Sand (320 grit) after the first coat and apply two or three more thinned coats. I spray everything with lacquer, but if I am away from my shop helping someone else that is the most bulletproof finished I have used. I know Rich likes shellac and I do too for a sealer, but I just hate the smell.

   Terry

   
   

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   Edited 3/2/2007 1:42 pm ET by terrylee86

1. 
   Rich14 | Mar 02, 2007 01:46am | #11

   LOL!

   I love the smell of shellac. Also love linseed oil. Hate varnish smell - too much mineral spirits (unless it has a lot of linseed).

2. 
   RGJ | Mar 02, 2007 10:51am | #12

   Thanks Terry,

   I was taken back by Hueys article as it was a tell all, step by step process, (cook book style). It's not often that you see someone pour their trade secrets out like that. Finishing is an art to some and the techniques are held very close to the vest.  I plan to try some of them on my projects.

   RGJ