Replies

1. 
   beachfarm | Feb 22, 2007 02:20am | #1

   Roughly: by thirds. It's not gospel but common in many styles.

   To my eye, the pieces that really stand out are those that have... err... "bent" the rules. Exaggerated serpentine fronts (deep curves), serpentine fronts where the center arc extends beyond the confines of the block, serpentine fronts where the center arc represents 2/3 of the width, sweeping curves to the sides (if applicable)...

   When these pieces were originally conceived, there were no guidelines - the decision was entirely in the hands of the maker. Now it's in yours.

1. 
   wesroh | Feb 22, 2007 04:23pm | #2

   beachfarm,

    

   Thanks. I agree about the exagerated curves - looking through many pictures of period pieces the ones that look best are those that appear to have deeper curves. However, there are sometimes limitations and things could be overdone. I was looking for some guidlines that might suggest minimum and maximum curves and their relative positions. These guidlines might also be impacted by the thickness of wood available as in my present case. I have 9/4 thickness available and need draws 28 in long and was wandering if this is sufficient for acceptable curves. Even though I have draw full size plans they do not give a true visual appearnce has to what the the final product would look like. Unfortunately, non of the drawings and pictures I have seen that look "right"  list real dimensions.

    

   Wesroh

1. 
   beachfarm | Feb 22, 2007 04:33pm | #4

   Limited depth of drawer stock is a good reason to exaggerate the arcs. You'll get the look of deep curves without, well, deep curves.When in doubt, build a mock up. 3/4 MDF works well.

2. 
   joinerswork | Feb 22, 2007 08:36pm | #6

   wes,

   It's possible to save the offcuts from the front of the drawer, and glue them onto the back, enabling you to saw a deeper curve (almost the full thickness of the front) by replacing the loss with the same stock, on the back side.   Of course, you'll have two sides to clean up, and the leading edge of the drawer bottom  will need to be shaped serpentine as well.  This can make for a lighter weight  (uniform thickness throughout ), and better looking, drawer front, when looked at from above, compared to one that is shaped on the front, and left flat on the back.  A short flat should be left at each end, on the inside, for dovetailing.

   Ray Pine

2. 
   beachfarm | Feb 22, 2007 04:30pm | #3

   Drawings to 'illustrate' my point.

   The smaller drawing is standard serpentine - roughly, three arcs. I made the larger drawing for a (modified) card table. The center arc is roughly 2/3 of the width for two reasons: 1. A larger (wider) display for the centered ellipse. 2. The short arcs sweep back to the legs and exaggerates the corners. It's not a stretch from the traditional form - a form where the sides equal one half the front (depth to width). It's a nice line on a chest of drawers, too, escpecially if the chest has canted corners.

   I have a picture around here somewhere of a serpentine front chest with canted corners that sold at Skinner's. A very nice piece with a wide center arc and sharp returns. It must have been a bitch to scrape those drawers fronts smooth...

   
1. 
   wesroh | Feb 22, 2007 07:52pm | #5

   Thanks,

   Yes, I think with canted corners there is an exaggeration of the curvature. I am also considering leaving small flats (parallel to the front) on the ends of the drawers to aid in cutting the dovetails. They will be a bit mo re time consuming if the drawer ends are not square - the down side is they will decrease the exaggeration of the curvature.

   Thanks  - and for the drawings

   Wesroh