Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 16, 2008 02:47pm | #1

   After you have set the mouth width--usually a practically one time thing--then check whether the blade edge is parallel to the sole by turning the plane upside down and advancing the blade until it just protrudes.  Adjust the lever arm until it is the same depth over all. 

   Then retract the blade so it is just below the surface of the sole.  When you try it it won't cut.  Then advance the blade in small increments until it just begins to cut.  (One woods that have been planed with power you will just cut wisps at the top of each planer ripple.)  This is, or a quarter turn more of the wheel more is about the depth of cut for smoothing.  After planing a bit until you start to make continuous shavings they would be lace like.  

   If you have gone too far, back the blade up until it doesn't cut and advance it again.  Because of the play in the knob, you always want to approach the depth of cut by starting too light and advancing the wheel.  If you try to adjust the other way, it is possible that the blade will shift a bit when you are planing because of the advancement mechanism isn't firm against it.   

   If you are trying to flatten the wood or make the boarder thinner you will want to make heavier cuts to begin, and likely have sharpened your blade with a little camber or curve so the corners don't dig. 

   As you go through this trial and error process, flip the plane over from time to time and sight alone the sole and see what it looks like.  Eventually you will be able to get quite close without so much fiddling. 

1. 
   JW1947 | Feb 16, 2008 02:55pm | #2

   Thanks Steve,
   I appreciate the adviceJames