A while back I posted (Here or in Tool Talk) about how I set jointer knives using a sheet of glass and strong magnets. Someone asked how I found top-dead-center.
I’m in the process of putting fresh knives in my jointer so I thought I’d answer the question.The picture below should answer any questions.View ImageThe knife bevel is flat to the glass – just adjust your outfeed table until the lower part of the bevel is just above flush with the cutter head. Then lock the outfeed table. That will ensure that all three cutters will be set the same. I can set a knife in about 15 minutes – 45 for all three. I don’t have a dial indicator (though I’m watching one on ebay 🙂 to tell you how far out the knives are, but I know I get great results with the jointer in the end. Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
Replies
Hello Mark,
When you get your dial indicator I am keen to know how accurate your method is.
If you read post #234463 and the following 34 you will see that not all jointers lend themselves to painless knife setting-also that I consider 45 minutes too long to set 3 knives , let alone 4 in my case.
Your method looks attractive for short knives, but I still suspect that there will be inconsistencies because the cutter block is not locked for each blade.However, if you are satisfied that you get a satisfactory result i.e a good surface then all is well- for you.
I did not check how long it took to re-set my knives using the setter I made,although I'm sure it was less than 45 minutes (for four)- I was just so pleased with the ease and accuracy achieved (and no back ache).
Mook,
I couldn't find that thread (234463) I'm assuming you showed your knife setting device.Yes my knives are 6" and you are probably right about the short knives....Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
View Image
Sorry Mark,
Igave the wrong number-s/be 23463 not 234463. It was around May 10 and there are pics of the setter.
For best results your dial indicator should have a "big foot".
Never mind, I saw the smaller pics.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Edited 5/19/2005 7:08 pm ET by forestgirl
Mark ,I have always used a piece of plate glass to push the knives down. Your idea with the strong magnet sounded like a terrific idea. Two days ago I tried it, worked great. I did check it with a dial indicator, I was within .0002 on one blade from one side to another. I put the indicator away, set the other blades and tried the joiner.
Worked perfect, took about one hour to complete . Probably could have done it in half the time if I tried.You can see the blade pull up tight to the glass as soon as you slide the glass and magnet over it.Your tip will go down as my best tip ever read on any woodworking forum.
thanks, mike
Mike, glad it worked so well. Did you run the dial indicator on the glass - sounds like your getting a good tight connection to the glass with your magnets.I don't know where I got the idea - I got my jointer nearly 10 years ago and have used the technique since then...Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
View Image
I put the dial indicator on the outfeed table, never thought of putting it on the glass.I do not recall where I bought the magnet, it's 4" long and and is supposed to be able to pick up 50 lbs.I have jack screws on this joiner, don't need them now. I ran the jack screws all the way down and left them there.
mike
Mark,
I have a 12" Northfield jointer with a 4 knife cutterhead. I have the Northfield dial caliper for setting knives, and can change all 4 in about 15 to 20 minutes including putting the tools back. It's very easy to get the knives to .001 or less to each other without much trouble. I then raise the outfeed table, turn on the jointer, put a previously jointed piece of stock on the outfeed table, and slide it slowly into the knives BACKWARDS, lowering the outfeed table until I get the slightest feathering sound. Bingo, dead on!
Jeff
Jeff, could you let us see a picture of the Northfield dangus that you mention? Also how long are the knives?
mookaroid
I don't know what a dangus is, but hopefully these help.
Jeff
Edit: the pic of the guage on the jointer is not the correct placement, obviously. I slide the tables out of the way, left and right. They weigh a couple hundred pounds apiece, and I wasn't in the mood!
Edited 5/20/2005 10:01 pm ET by JHeath
Jeff,
A dangus is a whaddyacallit.
That certainly looks like a Decent Surfacer.
What are all those ugly planes in the background?? I think you have too many-they will go rusty !
Thanks for the pic of the gauge- I am not a fan of this principle because it sets the knives relative to the cutter block,rather than the outfeed table. Sometimes the two are not in alignment.
Edited 5/20/2005 10:06 pm ET by mookaroid
Looking for really strong magnets?You can buy them or take apart a disk drive.My son pulled apart a 1-2 gb drive from a 5 year old (pre-pentium) computer.The two magnets above and below the pivot point of the read/write head are Really strong (I have a hard time pulling them apart) and they hold the jointer knives quite well...Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
View Image
there some pretty heavy duty magnets on old speakers i picked a nice pair for ten bucks at a garage sale" He who makes a beast out of one's self, get's rid of the pain of being a man"
mookaroid
I agree with your assessment regarding the alignment between the cutterhead and the outfeed table. However, for myself personally, I would never own such a disgusting excuse of a jointer. The Northfield I own was built in 1957. The 4 knife cutterhead is balanced, and the knives are numbered. The guy who restored it for me really knows his stuff. He specializes exclusively in old american cast iron. He has a warehouse full of machines like you wouldn't believe.
Anyway, owning a jointer, or any tool for that matter, which is not tuned properly to begin with, is a headache to deal with on all fronts. I won't allow one to be plugged into the electric source in my shop until it's 'right and ready'!
Jeff
By the way, those background tools don't know what rust is!
Ya Jeff, you are correct in theory-the good stuff is not supposed to have mis-alignments etc. But in practice it happens, somehow, and again the good stuff is always fully adjustable. Sometimes I wander if cast iron moves or creeps...Dynamic balancing is a must, especially on the lighter stuffotherwise there is vibration and early bearing failure.
How about photographing that machinery in the warehouse? It may be an idea to have a thread on "old heavy /giant interesting machines".
Back to your planes in the background-those Norton scotch-brite wheels are great for keeping everything clean and shiney easily-I'm sure they are available there.
mookaroid
I thought you were kidding about the rust! Those planes are bronze, thus the color. I keep them waxed and 'rust-free', as I use them daily. My cast iron planes, and I have many, get lapped over granite once or twice a year, just to keep them right.
The guy I mentioned with the old american cast iron stuff would love it if I posted pics here, as it would probably increase sales for him. But, he has over 500 machines in stock right now. He's got 20 of everything. Last time I was there, he had 8 (EIGHT) Oliver 270 tablesaws. That's just one model. He travels around the country and buys the stuff in lots as company's go out of business, or schools lose their woodshop programs. He takes them apart, down to the last screw, and rebuilds them like new, or better. My jointer is a joy to use.
Jeff
No, I could see the bronze ones, so was referring to the iron ones. I like to use the scotch brite wheel to take out the brown marks that come from where the hand is always touching.I must have corrosive hands.
Can you organise for me to re-locate near your mate with the machine re-building business-I have landed up in the wrong place here-customers too are hard to find,very hard to find.
mookaroid
He's been complaining about dwindling business for the purchase of his machines, and is squawking lately about retiring. I hope I can get to him for an upgrade to my bandsaw and planer before he does. Last time I paid him a visit, I spent about 5 hours just talking about the old machinery with him. His knowledge is amazing, at least to me. The guy knows what part goes where, and how to tweak it just right, for every machine we discussed. To me, it's amazing.
His equipment does come at a premium, but in my opinion, worth every penny. For me, knowing that what I buy from him has been gone over with 'a fine tooth comb', and is dialed in, is worth it.
Come to Chicago, lots of customers here. Lot's of idiots, too. Oh, well.
Jeff
Hint:
From your local computer shop, obtain a couple of defective, hard drives, the higher capacity the better. Carefully dismantle these, and cautiously retrieve the opposing pair of magnets from within. The best will almost defy human separation once brought together. They may be used with 1/4" plate glass to both hold the glass down on the jointer bed, and hold the knives up in the cutterhead while tightening the locking screws.
They can be used to quickly attach auxiliary fences on jointers and saws .... the kind you usually screw into place. They will hold the wrenches and machinery keys handy .... just don't hurt yourself when retrieving the tool.
You're on your own .... some of these are soo strong, they can hurt you. Don't drop them on a hard floor and keep them away from motors.
John in Texas
See my post 13 above. FYI the magnets are strong enough to work through 3/8" glass too (holding up 6" knives).Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
View Image
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled