What is the best way to quickly and accurately set the router table fence to obtain the precise width of a cut on the workpiece? I find I always fumble with the angle of the fence relative to the front edge of my table as though parallel is important but it feels like that probably isn’t even relevant, right?
Any tips? Thanks for any shared wisdom!
Replies
I don’t know the configuration of your router table, but parallel to the edge is probably arbitrary and irrelevant. My own fence pivots from one end and is adjusted by swinging the other end through an arc. As for precision of cut width, it might be possible to establish reference markings on the table as a guide, but whenever you change bit size the reference is different. Some people use precision set up bars with good success. I always just make test cuts on some scrap and dial it in that way.
Right! And square is square to the fence ---- The bit just sits in one place and goes roundy round...I have a picture in a book of Tage Frid with a router screwed to a piece of plywood. I figured it worked for him! I copied his and have only improved past that only slightly in all these years. I seem to get everything done! I don't understand router tables with all those doodads that cost hundreds of dollars! I may at sometime spring for a lift,that seems to me to be an improvement.
https://www.rockler.com/rockler-router-bit-center-depth-gauge
This gauge from Rockler got good reviews. It’s cheap. I ordered one last week but haven’t used it yet.
I bought that gauge and found it shoddy in materials and workmanship. On the issue of the fence, it doesn't need to be parallel with anything. All that matters is the distance to the bit. So for instance coping sleds generally don't ride in the miter slot. Rather, they use a piece that rides the fence and keeps the workpiece perpendicular to it.
I modified a plastic dial caliper so that it functions much like the Rockler gauge. It may be overkill, but it is more accurate than the Rockler and can be used to either measure cutter height from the table or distance to the fence.
As stated above, the fence doesn't have to be parallel to anything. The only critical dimension is between the cutter and fence.
The only time I can think of that the fence needs to be parallel to the front edge of the table is when you plan to use the miter gauge in its slot. Then the fence needs to be parallel to the slot.
In fact, I often adjust my fence location by leaving one end snug, and only moving the other end, as the movement at the end is larger and easier to control, if you want only a slight adjustment at the cutter.
For height and distance from the fence, I normally use an inexpensive set-up tool that has notches from 1/8" to 1" by 1/16ths. For more precision, I could use an antique vernier caliper, set up as a height gauge.
Correct!
If your piece references off the fence only, it does not matter.
If your piece references off of a miter slot or other fixed surface, then positioning the stock square comes into play.
I find that whatever you use to set the depth adjustment you do a test cut measure that and then readjust. I finally settled on making a set of blocks @ 1/16" increments to measure the depths and that seems to be what I use. Works at least as well as anything that I've bought to do that task. Actually i dont remember actually ever buying anything for that but somehow have a couple of things. A combination square works pretty good as well. Like I said you readjust,I can almost do it by eye- as in, " that looks to be about 5/16" and it is - about!
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2020/03/27/centering-a-groove-on-a-router-table
My router is mounted in the right wing of my tablesaw so I use the saw's fence. It is by Vega and has a built-in dial for fine adjustments. Test cuts are always the norm for getting set up.
The leading edge of the cutter is considered to be a "point". Therefore, the fence does not need to be "square", but can be on an angle.
Well! Parallel setup of the fence isn’t a requirement to make the cuts when you are dealing with a router table fence. However, you need to consider other factors for an accurate setup. Evaluating the height and depth of the cut will help you make the right setup instead of going parallel.
Lots of good stuff here. For those of us with lifts, assuring that the bit is perpendicular to the table is also essential to accurate cuts.
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