Replies

1. 
   PaulReuter | Dec 24, 2003 11:28pm | #1

   Alas, like so many others, you haven't even entered your state of residence in user profile.  Sometimes this much geographical info can help others answer posters heating questions.  Am I so naieve(sp?) that even this much info is enough for devious minded cretins?

   Back to your question:  cement board is an excellelent fire resistant surface behind woodstoves.  However, mounted directly on studs, it can conduct enough through to ignite materials behind it.  Instead, 1. drywall the wall behind it.  (Fireguard if you wish)  2. Tape all joints.  3. Apply steel stud strapping vertically over each wall stud. 4. Screw cement board to steel strapping.  Leave a 2" gap along the floor & be sure there is no horizontal strapping between the verticals.  If you apply cement board to the ceiling, be sure to leave a 2" gap there as well.  The open channel air space behind the cement board will allow convection air currents to carry away heat transmitted through the cement board.

   This is code in Manitoba but to be safe, check with your insurance co.  Good intentions don't carry much weight with them if you find out after the fact that you didn't meet their minimum requirements.

   Congrats on your new shop.

   Paul

1. 
   tv190s | Dec 24, 2003 11:31pm | #2

   Sorry Paul, I'm in NE Ohio. Didn't even think to post that info.

   Is Fireguard a type of dry wall board?

   Matt

   Edited 12/24/2003 3:32:12 PM ET by campbem

1. 
   PaulReuter | Dec 25, 2003 12:45am | #3

   Fireguard , as its name implies, is a more fire resistant type of drywall.  Usually 5/8" thick, it is required by code where a fire separation partition is necessary, such as between living quarters an an attached garage.  It is more expensive & is normally only used where required

   Paul

1. 
   tv190s | Dec 25, 2003 01:00am | #4

   What about the metal strapping, where could I find that, at a building

   supply store? Does it create a separation between the two layers (drywall and cement board). I don't know that I've seen that stuff before, although I never looked before either.

   Matt

1. 
   WayneL5 | Dec 25, 2003 04:56am | #5

   The strapping is a standard construction item.  It's used for providing a space (typically about an inch) between one layer of a wall or ceiling and another.  Sound isolation is a typical application.  The strapping is sheet metal bent into a hat shape.  The formal name for it is "resilient channel".

   For your wall, standard drywall is fine unless code requires a specific burn through rating.  Neither standard drywall nor fire-code drywall are flammable.  The difference is that normal drywall will crumble when exposed to extreme heat.  Fire-code drywall is constructed so that it won't fall apart, thus significantly delaying the spread of flame through a wall or ceiling.  Installing cement board, spaced off the wall a bit, is effective in keeping the wall from getting to hot.

   The wood stove should have a tag on it stating the required clearances from combustable surfaces.  If you meet these clearances than no special coverings are required.  Your floor, of course, must be non flammable no matter the distance because will drop hot embers on it.

   In a shop you have to be extra careful about not letting sawdust build up on any of the stove or pipe surfaces or anywhere around it.  And, of course, it limits the use of flammable liquids in your shop.

2. 
   JimW | Dec 25, 2003 09:22pm | #6

   Another good option is to use sheet metal and attach with bolts and stack of washers or nuts to seperate the barrier at least two inches from the wall.  As a firefighter, I much perfer the metal than the dura-rock because it is less likely to become damages and break apart.  Just be sure not to lean against it.

   Your best bet is to go to your local firestation.  They should be able to provide you with a couple of photographed pages of the local codes.

   Good Luck, and I must say you are very lucky to be able to build a dedicated shop.  I'm still in the basement/garage

   Jim

   Coventry Woodworking

   Oh yeah, even fire rated drywall is not enough to protect your new investment.  The heat can radiate to the framing and create a fire in the walls that will spread to the rest of the building (hint: blocking is a great, cheap, simple practice that many over look and some reget forgeting).

   
   

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   Edited 12/25/2003 1:25:06 PM ET by Jim W

1. 
   tv190s | Dec 25, 2003 11:23pm | #7

   Thanks for the info guys. Let me say that this isn't exactly a dedicated shop. Its my barn, but I will be partitioning off a 14 X 24 section. I'm already using that space but its just a mess w/o any organization at all. I'm been threatening for 3 yrs now to build the walls, run the elec., etc....and it just hasn't happened. So, once again this winter I'm going to.......

   It was just this month that I decided to use a wood stove to provide some heat during the winter months when I can be out there on a weekend. Over the last couple years of researching options, its about the cheapest way for me to go. Messy, yes. But I can heat the space easily for the several weekends I'd be out there thru the winter. So with any luck, I'll start building walls and such this winter. My hope is that next winter I can be somewhat finished.

   I'd like to position the stove closer to the wall than I'd be able to w/o a non-combustible surface. The recommendation by the mfr is 36" all around, and that would eat up space. My stove in my basement here is only 18" from the wall (block) and I'd like to install it in a similar fashion. I'll look for the metal strapping. I'll also look into some sheet metal. I thought about the bolt and washer method using the sheet metal already, but I figured there were other ways as well.

   Thanks again and happy holidays,

   Matt

1. 
   JimW | Dec 27, 2003 12:02am | #8

   As a side note, remove all glue from the shop when it's not heated.

   I started out working as a interior finish carpenter, and learned quickly my first winter that glue left in my truck was destroyed permanetly.  Tried microwaving for a couple secs, but didn't work well and caused it to lose it's bonding strength.

   Best thing is to keep a tool box (even a small one) just for glues that can go home with you each night (or week in your case).  Best of luck.Jim

   Coventry Woodworking