Replies

1. 
   RRusso | Nov 12, 2003 06:49pm | #1

   Is the 3x18 piece flush w/the sides and back, or is there an overhang?

1. 
   BG | Nov 12, 2003 07:50pm | #3

   RRusso,

   The 3x18" piece is flush with the back.  With the breadboard ends/sides there is a design element...that has on the underside of the breadboard a half inch rabbit and a cove finger tip lift.  A bit tricky to describe but, the breadboard hands over the sides by about 1/2"...and fits rather snuggly around the carcas..but just on the sides..

   Another way to describe this is the breadboard started out being 1" square stock and the top(writing surface) is 1/2" thick.  On the underside of the stock you cut a half inch rabbit on one side and a cove on the other...not sure that is any clearer.. 

1. 
   RRusso | Nov 14, 2003 08:46am | #9

   Ok, well I'd probably glue the rabbeted portion to the carcass, and secure the top in the breadboard ends like any other.

1. 
   BG | Nov 14, 2003 02:25pm | #10

   RRusso,

   Yes, I'm going to glue the 3" breadboard rabbit to the carcas...and single pin the  breadboard ends to the field...and elongate the pin by 3/4" so it sticks into the carcas side.  Finally, put in a couple of glue blocks so I can drive wood screws if necessary to hold the top.  I could also glue and pin the back edge of the field to the carcas...with 3-5 1/8" pins..it might be overkill..and kinda step away from the shaker philosophy...  

2. 
   JohnWW | Nov 12, 2003 06:59pm | #2

   BG,

   The 1/8 inch dowels alone would be fragile and probably wouldn't have much resistance to the joint opening up if the carcase or the panel racked a bit. 

   I think that a thin line of glue along the top edge of the carcase before setting the panel in place would be the way to go, and would supply all the strength you need.  There just isn't enough wood available for sturdy joinery. 

   The shrinkage across the three inch width of the panel probably won't cause enough stress to crack the field.  If the breadboard edging, instead of the panel, could be glued to the carcase then there wouldn't be a problem with cross grain stress at all. 

   If you wanted to further reinforce the joint, you could add glue blocks in the form of small quarter round molding either on the inside or outside of the box. 

   You could still use the dowels for alignment, it will make the glue up go easy, but they would only need to extend into the top of the carcase a quarter of an inch.

   Hope this helps, John W.

1. 
   BG | Nov 12, 2003 09:25pm | #4

   JohnW,

   Ahhh...I think you just hit on it.  As you may be able to detect from my awkward description, the edge of the breadboard does rest on the carcas edge...however it is or would be a cross grain.  With just a single pin in the breadboard to hold it onto the field...the field could float...

   I'm  little leary to glue the So. Amer. Cherry to the edge of the back panel of the carcas.  Last night I droped the glued up cherry and it came apart.  I made a spline and reglued.  The density and smooth finish makes me wonder if I have the right glue.  I'm not worried in use because the BB will be there to support.

   thanks

3. 
   BobSmalser | Nov 13, 2003 06:39pm | #5

   I'd cut buttons in a groove on a smaller scale than the shaker table in the pic.

   http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2594265/36332508.jpg

1. 
   BG | Nov 13, 2003 07:21pm | #6

   Bob,

   I've used the buttons before using the biscuit cutter on the side walls, they are a good solution.  However, in this situation, access to the underside is very limited..maybe two inches...and the carcas is only 1/4" thick...making the button option or using metal fastners a bit difficult.

   There are two pieces to the top: 3"x18" and 11"x18".  Last night I cut the top the two pieces.  This morning I have a 1/4" twist in the 3" piece...(sigh).

1. 
   BobSmalser | Nov 13, 2003 10:34pm | #7

   The woodworker's supplies sell thin steel gismos that do the same thing as the buttons.

   Then I finally read that you don't have bottom access....sorry.

   No sweat.....slotted screw holes from the bottom or slotted screw holes from the top with oval bungs of a contrasting wood.

   And see if a tight set of breadboard ends removes the twist...steam the board if you have to....an alternative is to kerf the bottom of the board to remove the twist...in a place that's out of sight....read the grain from end and sides and see if you can find where the stress is that a relief kerf will ease.

   Edited 11/13/2003 2:39:37 PM ET by Bob

1. 
   BG | Nov 13, 2003 11:28pm | #8

   Bob,

   Because the board is only 1/2" thick, and 3x18", I can push it flat.  I think I'll grab your idea and put a couple of glue blocks in the space, and, if necessary, use some wood screws and plugs. The glue blocks will never be seen...