Hi, I’m new to woodworking and this forum. I’ve only made one or two things that I would consider fine woodworking, so my experience with finishing is very limited. Sorry if I fit a lot of questions in this post.
I’m in the process of building a small humidor (12″x10″x6″) out of solid walnut with a walnut burl veneer for the top (MDF substrate).
After reading some of the posts on finishing walnut, I’m leaning towards doing a coat of BLO, followed by shellac. I want this to be an elegant, high gloss finish. There are 3 things that are going to be a new challenge for me with this project. 1. dying sap wood, 2. filling pores, 3. working w/ veneer
Here is what I’m thinking.
Step 1. dye sap wood to have it match dark wood. I was thinking of alcohol based dye. But if there is a better type/brand, I’ll use that.
2. Apply BLO.
3. Use pumice to fill pores (recent FWW article).
4. Either pad or brush shellac. Haven’t decided yet how I want to do this (french polish, just rub out, etc.)
Here are the questions:
Should I apply BLO to the inside of the humidor as well? Or just go straight to the shellac. I read that inside of drawers/boxes are sometimes not good places for oil because of the smell that would be trapped in the box (bad for cigars).
Following the FWW article using pumice to fill in pores, will this work for the veneer top?
I’m not sure if I am applying the dye at the correct time, or if I need to do a step between the dye and BLO.
As for the shellac, is there any brand and source that you can suggest. I think I would like the flake/non-premixed stuff. I’ll probably get both orange and blond incase it starts getting too dark between sessions.
Replies
Hey Todd,
I would definitely pad on the shellac vs brushing, you'll have more control. I find that any brand of flake shellac works fine, give yourself lots of time (overnight) to mix it. I would not oil the interior. Do NOT finish the Spanish Cedar lining. You are lining it with Spanish Cedar, aren't you?
The stain, and blonde vs amber shellac, is a matter of personal taste. Personally, I prefer not hide the existance of sapwood, but use it to hilight the heart wood and draw attention to it by contrast. Similarly, I think that if you're using BLO that's amber enough. I would use the blonde shellac only.
Instead of sanding the shellac surface, I use oil and pumice on a thick felt block. The reason is that shellac can clog sandpaper pretty quickly. Get yourself a number of felt blocks and dedicate them to a specific grit. I start with FFF, go to FFFF, and end with rottenstone. The final rub is just oily fingertips. It's amazing how the ridges on your fingers can burnish the shellac surface.
That's how I'd do it, but there are as may methods as there are finishers.
Good luck,
Tom
That
I read that article. It was good.
I am definitely lining with unfinished sp. cedar. But its more of the finishing the walnut "shell", and if oil shouldn't be used internally.
The MDF was based off of the FWW internet article on humidors. It will be have veneers on both sides. I'll take a look at the Formaldehyde-free post.
Will the pumice and rottenstone be a problem with veneer?
Hey Todd,No problem at all. You will be using the abrasives to cut the coatings, not smooth the veneers, although you might cut the high points initially.Tom
Also, what cut did you use for shellac (#1,#2)? I was sure if "cut" was the right term there.
Hey Todd,I usually use 3# cut, because it builds fast, but you can go slower and more controlled with a more dillute mix.Tom
Spanish Cedar for me!
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