Replies

1. 
   JeffKurtz | Sep 14, 2002 07:13pm | #1

   Lee,

   No complaints on my Freud cutters.

   Jeff

2. 
   riverr1 | Sep 15, 2002 08:18pm | #2

   Lee,

   I think you'll be happy with any quality cutters and the bads ones aren't as readily available as they are for routers. Speaking of routers. Someone not to long ago mentioned rpm's as an advantage over shapers. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't that misleading. Figure out the speed difference by the distance traveled in the same amount of time between a 1 inch and 3 inch cutter using the old, Pi x radius squared. 2.14 x 1/4 compared to 2.14 x 2.25. That cutter is passing over the work piece at 8 to 9 times the speed. Cut the shaper's rpm's in half and it's only 4 times (approx) the speed. Have I got this right?

   Don

   
   

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   Edited 9/15/2002 3:57:01 PM ET by Don C.

1. 
   JeffKurtz | Sep 16, 2002 07:00am | #5

   Don,

   You're right (I think), but bear in mind that not all shaper cutters have large diameters and some router bits (e.g. raised panel bits) are relatively large.  If we're thinking of the same post, the point made spoke of the high speed of the router which is necessary to provide enough power for the bit to do it's job.  (I can't explain the physics except by way of analogy; imagine trying to use Dremmel attachments on an 850 rpm. Milwaukee drill.  The Milwaukee probably has 10-20 times the power of the Dremmel, but you will do little more than make some scratches and ruin the bits.)

   That's why many consider it a bad idea to use router bits in a shaper.  I've never tried it, but I guess you get a lot of tear-out.

   Jeff

1. 
   riverr1 | Sep 16, 2002 03:26pm | #6

   Jeff,

   You're right, that does makes sense also.

   Don

2. 
   TKanzler | Sep 16, 2002 05:33pm | #7

   The surface speed of the cutter is 2*pi*r*omega, or pi*d*omega where omega is the rotational speed in revs per unit time.  The surface speed will have the same units as radius or diameter, ie if you use inches for diameter, the result is in inches per unit time.  The surface speed is proportional to diameter (or radius) and to rotational speed, so an increase from 1 in diameter to 3 in diameter will have 3 times the surface speed for a given rotational speed.  For example, using 1 in dia cutter at 21 000 rev/min, 3.14*1.0 in*21 000 rev/min = 66 000 in/min, or 1100 in/s.  This is the same surface speed as a 3 in cutter operating at 7 000 rpm (the lower speed on a Delta heavy duty shaper).  But the 1 in cutter operating at 10 000 rpm (high speed on the Delta shaper) has a surface speed of a little less than 1/2 that of the 21 000 rpm router setup.  I don't know anything about the physics of wood removal via high speed cutter, but I suspect it has something to do with the inertia of the wood fibers and the subsequent need to present the cutting edge at a high enough speed to prevent the remaining fibers from being pulled while taking a small cut.  Think of cutting a sapling with a machete; if you hit it slowly, the wood moves and the blade only goes part way through while pulling the tree (tearout?), but if you hit it smartly enough, you can cut it off cleanly while imparting almost no motion to the wood.  Not unlike a karate (wo)man breaking a board, or the guy who pulls tablecloths out from under the place settings.  At least, that's my guess.  Where's NIEMIEC1 when you need him?

    

   Be seeing you...

   Edited 9/16/2002 11:03:01 AM ET by TDKPE

1. 
   riverr1 | Sep 16, 2002 11:31pm | #9

   Fair enough. I was going by the circumference differences only. I appreciate the correction.

   Don

3. 
   user-24343 | Sep 15, 2002 09:17pm | #3

   Charles G.G. Schmidt, Freeborn Tool and LRH Enterprises are are all sources I've been pleased with.  I've gotten Freeborn bits through Schmidt and the people at Schmidt are very knowledgeable and helpful.  They all have web sites with catalogs online or Adobe Acrobat. 

4. 
   clampman2 | Sep 15, 2002 10:33pm | #4

   I assume from your post that you have just bought a small shaper and are not planing to use it to make a living.

   If I'm wrong, then you want to buy only cutters and heads with a 1 1/4" hole. Your primary cope and stick cutters should be stackables. Corregated back knife heads, pinch collar heads, through hole knife heads, should, generally speaking, be the largest diameter that your machine can handle properly, and you are comfortable handling. As the previous poster mentioned, foot speed is one of the critical factors in milling wood.

   The best source for good shaper cutters, heads, router bits etc. is usually a profile grinding company. Most of them sell that sort of thing.

   Clampman

5. 
   JeffKurtz | Sep 16, 2002 10:36pm | #8

   Oh my gosh - what's happening here?  I suddenly feel like I'm in the back row of high school trig class again....................lost!!!!!!!!!!!!

   Jeff