I was hoping to get some advice on how to shape an arched beam. I have made my template and glued-up my stock which is 2 1/2″ thick. Normally, I would affix my template to the roughed-out stock and shape it with a flush-cutting pattern bit on my router table. The problem here is that the bits only come 2″ tall and my stock is thicker. I thought about moving the template to the other side of the stock but then I run into the problem of cutting against the grain. What would be the best approach?
Replies
J.B.
I could not pull up the photo of the template setup.However,assuming that your setup has the template on the bottom of the work,you might try this.
Let your profile bit cut as deep as it is designed to do.Then take off the template and let the bearing ride on the freviously cut surface. I would think that you would be able to raise the cutter a small ammount,depending on the router depth possibilities.Assuming a template thickness of 1/2"you may now be able to profile up to 3".
This is for a profile cuter with the bearing between the shank and the cutter. If the bearing is on the end of the cutter,place the template on the top.Work safely.¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬
Thanks,
I considered using the same cutter twice; the second time riding on the newly profiled edge. The cutter just isn't tall enough for that.
I realize the proper tool would probably be a heavy duty shaper but I don't have one of those.
JB
Mate of mine uses two cutters for this, one each of top and bottom bearing.
He uses the first to run off the template, say a 1 3/4" depth. He then takes the template off, flips the stock and attacks from the other side with the bottom bearing bit against the first cut. This gives another 1 3/4" so he can get a total of 3 1/2" using a router.
Havn't done it myself.
dave
You could try cutting the last 1/2" as close to the line as possible with a bandsaw or coping saw then using a pattern sanding drum (with bearing) on the drill press to get the last 1/2". It's way slower than routing but at least you wouldn't have to worry about grain direction.
If you build it he will come.
use the top bearing bit with the template. cut as deep as posible then flip the piece over and use a flush trim bit with the bearing on the bottom of the bit.
I cope the ends of 6'' x 4'' beams for trullis this way. works great.
Straight bits come at least 3" long with 1/2" shanks
If you reverse the template, to avoid cutting against the grain traverse the router the opposite way.
You may leave a slight 'ridge' but that can be planed or sanded off. Steinmetz.
What JohnR5 said, works well
For just one piece like that I would not bother with all the flap of router and making a template/guide.....
Mark it accurately , cut carefully with bandsaw and clean it up with compass plane, card scraper and minimal sanding using a section of offcut as a sanding pad. Would be done before you had fired up the router....
JBdesigns.
Hey I have done that!
I carved up some white oak timbers for my timberframe.. I needed to make twenty curved beams and since they would be lined up each had to be pretty close to perfect..
Make your template and cut them out on a bandsaw.
Mine were 10 feet long made from 6"x9" white oak. I should have made giant infeed and outfeed tables and the job would have gone faster. I didn't and it took me almost an hour to cut the first one.. the second one I did in 20 minutes the third in twenty and eventually I could saw them out in a little over 10 minutes.
Saw a little proud of the line.
Then get a curved base power plane. I used a Mikita 1002BA and gently work to the line stopping to check periodically with your template..One you are at that point tke a belt sander and smooth the whole thing.
It goes surprisingly fast and is really accurite.. I can sight along any place on my beams and there isn't a single error your eye will pick up..
A circular plane.
If you've only one or even just a few of these to do, then I'd do as others suggested and hand shape them using a compass plane or whatever you have. If you have a bunch, then cobble up a pattern following jig for the bandsaw and use your template. If you don't have a bandsaw, then it's back to hand work.
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