Can anyone tell me how to use a file guide and file to sharpen a chainsaw blade? If not, can anyone tell me a place on the Internet where I can find good instruction on that subject?
Sorry if this is off topic but if it helps I wanted to use it for reasons related to this forum.
Thanks,
Richard
Replies
Forget the file. Go to Sears or HD and get one of the small powered grinders with a guide. The instructions are clear about what bevel angle to use on your blade.
Forget the guide.
Make sure the file is the right size for the chain.
Put the saw in a vise.
Wear gloves.
Hold the file diagonally across the saw blade so it fits in the semicircular cutting edge . This gives you the proper angle. Now push the file forward while rotating it.Count te strokes/ tooth and use even pressure.
There is a learning curve to this. About every 4th sharpening I take the blade in and get it resharpened.
The only thing I can add to what Biscardi said is to grind a little off the top of the drag links about every 3rd or 4th sharpening.
You want to try to keep the tops of the cutting edges all at the same height, with the drag links just slightly lower.
Poorly done commercial sharpening can burn the cutting edges. I highly prefer using a file and doing it by hand. Using the proper size file and the correct angle will give you a cutting edge that will last longer than commercial sharpening. Plus much longer blade life.
I would take 3 sharp blades with me when journeying out to the boon-docks for a day of sawing. Haven't done much of that for the last 15 years. Sure miss it.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
PlaneWood
KooKoo,
Go to http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/manual_maint.htm.
You should find the info you need there. Identify what size chain you have and get the apprpriate file, file guide and raker depth guage.
Don't waste your money on a grinder--a file gives you the best edge.
Do use a guide every few sharpenings--it ensures that you maintain appropriate cutting angles.
Every 3rd or 4th sharpening, check the raker clearance and adjust if necessary.
Good luck!
One other thing If you get the teeth off " filed differently shorter on one side " the saw will not cut straight- If the saw cuts to the left file the left side- try to avoid this it a pain to get it back even .
A file guide can make things easier> I am talking a good filing guide one that clamps to the bar and has a depth stop for the file .
I do most my sharpening in a vise by hand with a new file and make sure its the right size- I have also screwed up several chains- keep count of strokes- keep same angle - file drags - then you have to turn around and do it the other direction > it takes practice.
You know one thing no one has mentioned the easy way you can buy a new chain pretty cheap and its sharp and ready to go - you will spend 30 minutes sharpening
Keep it out of the rocks and dirt
Ron
Who Ever Has The Biggest Pile Of Tools When You Die Wins
A few additions:
Put the BAR of the saw in a vise, close to the engine, so that you can rotate the chain as you work, and the angles will be pretty much the same for each stroke. If you can't, you can do this on a benchtop, or even the ground.
Mark a tooth before you start so you know when you're back to the first tooth. I use a red Sharpie.
The direction of the teeth alternates; do one direction, then the other, rather than one left then one right. Helps keep your angle consistent.
Different chains use different sizes and shapes of files. Make sure yours match.
You can carefully guage the sharpness of a given tooth with your finger; draw your finger very lightly across the sharpened corner of the tooth; it'll catch at your finger if it's sharp, but you just feel like you're touching a corner if it's not. In spite of this, do wear gloves. Take 'em on and off if you do this test rather than leaving them off for convenience's sake.
There IS a learning curve to it, but if you're thoughtful, you'll nail it the first time.
I didn't read the posts above very carefully, sorry if I duped any info.
Good luck,
Charlie
I can tell there is some good info here, although I'm still lost. First thing is to find out which chain I have - It is an Oregon chain but the numbers don't quite match up with info from Oregon manuals. I found a 91VG but my packaging says 91VJ. I'll have to wait till Monday and call their support number. I don't want to screw up a chain and I'm just not sure how to match the file up the chain's angles yet.
I'll have to take it to someone who professionally sharpens chains and pay real close attention if they'll let me.
Thanks,
Richard
Chain saw files are sized in inch fractionals. One can match a drill bit curvature to the curvature on the tooth face to determine the proper size.
Tom
Hey Tom -
Back in Tulsa I used to be a Scoutmaster for a boy scout troop. Our troop cut and sold firewood in the winter months as a way to earn expenses for a summer trip to Colorado.
I had a 24" Husqvarna and my bud had a 24" Stihl. I had a home made hydraulic splitter.
He and I would fall the trees and section them up and the dads that came out for the weekend would cut up the branches with their little Poulands. Was a real laugh to see them grinding away on a limb throwing out nothing but fine dust. We'd generally let them go an hour or two then sharpen the blade for them.
The boys in the troop did all the non sawing work. The Eagle Scout candidates got to run the splitter.
Anyway, the troop would make $2500 to $3000 in a winter which financed a trip to the mountains the following summer. We did that for 5 years and it was extremely enjoyable.
My Husqvarna is now 25+ years old and won't start now till the 2nd or 3rd pull. :) Not counting bars and chains and oil and gas, I think I've spent about $100 on it since I've had it.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
Anybody who's experienced with an electric 4" grinder KNOWS that its the fastest and often best way to sharpen chains. Key words are "experienced", meaning that you don't burn the steel, you keep the correct angles etc. Remember, you're not cutting dovetails - just lumber. - JB
I agree, a dedicated sharpener works very well and very quickly. Used properly it can save a ton of time and effort and as an added bonus, saves a lot of time in the field.
And it is definitely easier to get straight cuts when the chains have been sharpened on a dedicated chain sharpener.
We usually use our chains for a little while and just touch up the chisel points lightly with a hand file. Do this often enough and it will save a ton of wear on your body because the saw will cut on it's own (as opposed to putting your entire body weight into it just to make a cut).
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