Replies

1. 
   Andrew | Jul 08, 2003 12:55am | #1

   Buffing wheels are no good for plane irons or chisels because they round the bevel over when they sharpen. A much better choice is a hard felt wheel that will hardly round the bevel at all. This is the system that I use and I can hone a dull edge to surgical sharpness in under 30 seconds.

1. 
   cmbb | Jul 08, 2003 03:01am | #2

   I call it a buffing wheel but it actually is a bunch of hard paper laminated togther in a 8" diameter circle.

   Do you use the white compound?

1. 
   WilliamHF | Jul 08, 2003 04:40am | #3

   Thanks for the above remarks.

   I used the soft cotton wheels when I started sharpening and soon learned about the rounding over of the previously sharpened edge.

   I switched to hard felt and it works pretty well, but not perfectly well.

   I've only read about the paper disk with fine abrasive method.

   But if the latter works, then why shouldn't a penny-pinching worker spin up a disk of 3/4" MDF on the lathe, of whatever diameter seems appropriate for the worker, install an arbor in the center hole, mount it in the chuck of his drill press or lathe, apply a little abrasive compound of choice and go to the honing/polishing stage with such equipment?

   William

   I make something, sometimes twice, each year.

1. 
   cmbb | Jul 08, 2003 12:40pm | #4

   I have the paper wheels and they work good on a knife, it was recommened by a custom knife maker. I have never used it on  a plane blade but it is fast on the knife and I can shave my arm in no time.  The MDF sounds like a possibility! We will find out.

2. 
   Steinmetz | Jul 09, 2003 02:21am | #6

   Will, What you describe is a polishing Bob. Just a hardwood wheel impregnated with Emery/Tripoli or Rouge. 

    Swordsmiths were using 'Bobs' for at least 500 yrs. 

    Cutlery and knife makers (Messersmitts) utilize them as well.

   A hard felt wheel will do yeoman work in removing deep scratches and in profiling knife blades to blend in abrupt or prominent surfaces.

   Note: While the hard felt wheels will impart a mirrorlike finish on steel, it's speed must be commensurate with it's diameter. (Surface speed)

   Hard felt wheels,when used at extreme speed or hard usage will smoke and burn (Not to mention, ruin the temper of the chisel in the bargain.

   If you want your chisels to really shine, buff with the white compound right up to the bevel.

    Avoid any heat build up, then hone the edge on an oil stone ,(A FLAT STONE with light oil)  with strokes toward the stone while endeavering to keep the bevel or from 'Rocking'.

   A flat piece of hard leather glued to a flat wood block and imbedded with Jeweler's Rouge, will serve as a 'Strop' to remove any microscopic wire edge remaining.

   Strop both the chisle's back and bevel held flat to the strop, BUT,only pull the tool toward you a few licks. Stein. 

    If you have'nt shaved yet,(Forest Girl, ignore this)lather up.

1. 
   WilliamHF | Jul 09, 2003 07:31pm | #7

   Thanks, Stein, and all other contributors.

   Well please explain to me how it is (i'm not in doubt that it works) that the rougher side of a piece of leather, charged with a fine abrasive, can hone a fine edge on a sharpened tool?

   That is, one would have supposed, ---- perhaps I should say, I would have supposed----that, since the business surface of the leather is anything but a flat plane, that the leather treatment would dull the tool. How does one explain that?

   And, Stein, once you have buffed or stropped the tool's sharpened edge on either leather or with a properly used felt wheel, why go back to a stone, even a fine grit stone?

   Digging further into this subjecdt:  What kind of leather should one acquire to use as a strop?  What quality grade?  What thickness?  Does the idea leather have some sort of trade name?

   And digging further, at what speed do you suggest that a felt wheel of a given diameter be run for buffing/honing purposes? Could you give examples please? Like, say, for a 4", or a 5" or a 6" diameter hard felt wheel? Would you recommend some specific RPM speed for each?

   Many thanks,

   WilliamI make something, sometimes twice, each year.

2. 
   Steinmetz | Jul 10, 2003 02:37am | #8

   Will, if you re-read my first post, I said A felt wheel is for polishing and blending steel to a high lustre.

   I also said polish right up to the bevel BUT don't buff the edge.(A no no)

   The type of leather I meant is called oak tanned cowhide. 1/4" thick  (Shoe sole material)

   With the 'Hair' side up (Smooth)

   You must 'Charge' the strop by rubbing in the rouge compound 'till it turns reddish pink (On the smooth side)   I make my strop handles flat and band sawn to look like an elongated ping pong paddle.  (12" long)

   The rectangular piece of leather(3-1/2" x 5") is attached with contact cement (two coats on the porous flesh side and one on the wood.)

   A 2' wheel at 3450 will burn with too much pressure    I suggest 1750 rpm

    Stropping an edge is to remove the wire edge left after proper honing on a FLAT oil or water stone

    The method is the opposite of the forward motion when honing on a stone. Press the bevel flat and pull the blade toward your self then flip the blade and strop the blade's back in the same direction and manner. To test the sharpness, try to slice a sheet of newspaper with the blade or shave your wrist's hair,or try to 'nick' your thumbnail.

   If you have a TANDY leather & hobby shop near by, they have leather remnants for sale cheap  Or go to your local shoe repair shop.STEIN.

2. 
   Rex | Jul 09, 2003 01:08am | #5

   I agree with all.  Buy a leather wheel and use the white or red polishing compound.  I am a woodworker and woodcarver.  My chisels and knives have to be razor sharp.  There are many sharpings systems out there but the leather wheel is constant in all of them to remove the burr or to put a fine edge on.  Remember the barber who would strop his razor quite often, same thing.

   Rex