I have been sharpening my tools using the method endorsed by the Museum of Woodworking Tools (www.antiquetools.com), i.e., positioning the chisel by hand instead of using a jig.
To maintain the proper sharpening angle, the tip of the chisel is *firmly* held down with one hand while the handle is *barely* supported by the other hand. This keeps the bevel flat against the grinding surface. It worked great with a 5/8″ chisel from Marples.
I had less success with a 1/4″ chisel. The blade is so small compared to the handle that it is very unbalanced in the sharpening position. I can find the correct angle but it’s hard to maintain once the chisel is moving.
Is there an easier way to sharpen this chisel–i.e., a way that doesn’t rely so much on balance.
This happens to be an inexpensive chisel from the hardware store. I was wondering if a higher-quality chisel would be balanced better and not so handle-heavy. Or does balance not have much affect on its working quality?
Janet
Replies
Janet,
Get a jig.
Lots of sharpeners take a fierce pride in freehand sharpening all the tools in their chests. Wonderful. I think that's great. But I don't have that particular skill.
I did have that skill. A few times I set myself the goal of learning how to sharpen without a jig. After several intense days or weeks practicing, I could do it--and do it pretty well, if I do say so myself.
But as day followed day, week followed week that I didn't have to sharpen anything, the knack left me. It's not like riding a bicycle. After reading about all the great and talented wood workers who use jigs, I decided there is no shame in it.
One of the reasons some give as to why you should learn to freehand is that when you need to touch up an edge, it's extremely difficult to get the tool set in the jig just right, set at the exact angle.
Pshaw!
To get the jig set exactly right, time after time, make another jig. A flat piece of wood with dowels or blocks of wood set at the right distances from the edge will enable you to set tools in the jig at exactly the same angles time after time, in just a few seconds.
If you think a 1/4" chisel is tough, wait until you try a plane iron.
Alan
Janet,
Assuming that you're right handed, the right hand wrist is locked in position and does not move at all - rock your body back and forth to move the chise.
The fingers of the right hand are als gripping the chisel firmly.
As the chisel gets narrower it gets harder to do (1/8" chisels are moderately difficult, 1mm chisels are near impossible)- but plane irons are a breeze.
I was trained to sharpen freehand similarly to the method on the site you mention.
Keep at it, it's worth it in the long run.
Cheers,
Andrew
>> Assuming that you're right handed, the right hand wrist is
>> locked in position and does not move at all - rock your body
>> back and forth to move the chisel.
Thanks, Eddie, that was a lot of my problem--I'd forgotten to keep my arms immobile.
By the way, the folks at the museum E-mailed some helpful suggestions:
>> Janet,
>> three solutions:
>> 1) practice.
>> 2) hold the chisel with the blade perpendicular to the direction
>> of movement. - less chance of tipping a narrow chisel if the
>> blade is not askew
>> 3) use more downward pressure and then with your pinky
>> lightly support the handle to take some of the weight off
>> your forefinger.
>>
>> thanks for your email,
>> Joel
Maybe I'm not responding to your question, but. . . .
For me, effective freehand sharpening is always preceeded by creating a hollow grind on the grinding wheel. That does two things. One, you get a real solid "click" when you have the right position, which is then easy to hold. Two, because of the hollow grind you don't have to remove much material. When the hollow grind disappears create another one.
This works find on all chisels and on most plane blades. When you get up to the humoungous blade of a L-N jointer, however, the balance does get hard to keep.
What Alan said about honing jigs is also true.
Janet.... if it weren't for my Veritas honing guide, I'd be lost. It'll handle angles from 15-39 deg, and widths from 1/4" - 2 3/8"..
Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
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