Replies

1. 
   mwenz | Nov 08, 2006 04:20am | #1

   If the teeth are in good shape, I would recommend you learning how. If you do not wish that, I would recommend sending it to Steve Cooke:

   http://www.cookessharpening.com/

   While not in your area, Steve will do the job properly.

   Take care, Mike

1. 
   user-223957 | Nov 08, 2006 04:35am | #3

   thanks for the quick reply mike   i toyed with the idea of doing it myself  but i thought if i could get it done at a reasonable price then why risk screwing the saw up and having to have somebody else do it anyway   i will contact cookes  thanks mike

1. 
   mwenz | Nov 08, 2006 04:43am | #4

   Steve is not only good, but more than reasonable on his price. Quick turnaround as well is my understanding. He is one of the most recommended sharpeners.

   Take care, Mike

2. 
   alanplanesaw | Nov 08, 2006 04:34am | #2

   Michael,

   I agree with Mike W.  I live about 30 minutes from Cook Sharpening.  Steve has sharpened several of my saws.  He sharpens saws from all over the nation and a few other countries.  He has a Disston Museum -- display of almost every type of saw Disston made.

   He is not related, nor would he even know me if I walked into his shop.   He does good mail order work.

   Alan - planesaw

3. 
   derekcohen | Nov 08, 2006 08:50am | #5

   Michael

   You should realise that Mike is being extremely unassuming (as usual). He is, in fact, the best saw sharpener around. In fact, he builds the best handsaws around!

   Try him at:

   http://wenzloffandsons.com/saws/

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

1. 
   mwenz | Nov 08, 2006 09:53am | #6

   Blush blush, but I am neither quick on the turn around nor inexpensive...

   Which reminds me, got some saws to work on...

   Take care, Mike

1. 
   Patto | Nov 09, 2006 01:10am | #7

   Mike,

   I have a Disston tennon saw that I paid ithink $15 for and had sharpened for another $15. When it came home it felt sharp, but consistently pulled to the right. Watching some of these threads, I stoned the set on the right side a couple of times, and it now tracks pretty well - even with me using it.

   It also had a bit of a waver along the blade at the edge which came out with a few hammer taps on top of the back. (light taps) not sure where I read or heard that bit, but my investment in this saw allows some experimentation.

   My remaining problem with this saw is that it is hard to push when in a cut. The only things I can think of are that the blade is warped in the middle so is binding, &/or the set is too small with the same effect. The saw is 16TPI if I remember correctly.

   Any suggestion?

   dave

1. 
   mwenz | Nov 09, 2006 03:47am | #8

   Hi Dave--hard to push, assuming the saw is sharp, is often due to too steep of rake.

   But there are other issues. For instance, depending on the thickness of the saw plate, hard to push can be the shear amount of wood it is trying to remove in conjunction with the rake and set. Tis a balancing act. Also, slightly uneven tooth height can also make the saw hard to push.

   Set can also be an issue. Uneven set on one or both sides can make one or more teeth grab as they try to pass through the kerf. As you have stoned one side, and if there is still at least 5 or more thousandths, you can try taking a light pass on both sides evenly and see if it is smoother. If so, it probably is just the set is still uneven.

   If the rake is less than 8 degrees or so and the saw plate is thick and the wood beig sawn is hard, such as hard Maple or some exotics, that too can be a contributing factor.

   All of these can be corrected in your shop with a saw file appropriate for the PPI and a flat file for lightly jointing.

   Feel free to email me directly if you want to try correcting it your self and we can most likely get it sorted out.

   Take care, Mike

1. 
   Patto | Nov 13, 2006 07:52am | #9

   Mike,

   thanks for your thoughts. I had a chance to look over the tool this weekend.

   There is a reasonable amount of rake, and it is not hard to start. It does get harder the wider the piece being sawn, so the idea of pushing lots of wood with the relatively high tooth count and that the plate is a fair bit thicker than my Pax makes sense.

   The tooth set seems even to feel, though it is a bit asymetric due to stoning one side. The push is just stiff though, it doesnt sem to 'catch' in a single position as I might expect with an odd tooth out of whack. There is enough set to clear the plate both sides.

   The edge is pretty straight, but there does seem to be a bit of 'belly' in the middle of the plate. It would be no more than .25mm over 150, I cant imagine that tis is mote than the clearance created by the set, or that it would be exceptional for a tool of this vintage.

   It still cuts with a good smooth finish, so Ill leave off fiddling til the end of this project. Will get back then if thats OK.

   Dave