I use a honing guide(Veritas in my case) to sharpen chisels and plane blades; I have found sharpening to a consistent angle ( 25 deg. for chisels) gets the best results. My problem is I bought 3 Japanese chisels and their blades, shorter than western chisels, are not long enough to allow the guide to grip them for a 25 deg. angle.In other words to get it low enough for the 25 deg. angle I would have to clamp the chisel in the round neck portion, which, of course, it won’t.
Has anyone experienced this problem and have a solution? The advantages of better steel, etc., in these chisels seems to be lost if you can’t sharpen them. I use the sandpaper method and am accustomed to razor sharp chisels with the western type.
Replies
Sailex,
I use the cheapie guide from WWarehouse ($4.95 about) on the Japanese chisels and the sandpaper. It works fairly well, altough the 1/4" is not as perfect a fit as I would like because there is no bevel on the side of the blade.
I have a question for you. When you resharpen, like after cutting a couple of dozen dovetail draws, what sandpaper do you back up too. Do you stay at the Higher grits (1000-2000) and hone more frequently or go back to the 400 and less fequently?
Thanks, BG. I usually go back to the 1000 but recently I had to go back to the 600-800 level. I suppose it depends on how much you have used them ( how dull they are).
I dont want to disapoint you, but I stronlgy believe that you must sharpen your chisel from under. If you look at the chisel, imagine if you sharpen it a lot of time, the hollow will show and the cutting edge wont be straight. You must sharpen those from under, hollow side on the stone.
Bob
Japanese chisels get sharpened just like any other kind of chisel. Both sides have to be honed. When your edge reaches the hollow of the japanese chisel you tap out (from the bevel side) to make a new flat area.
I agreewith Ben, you must work both edges; the two edges coming together is what you are faced with and to only hone one side gets only half the job done.
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