Hi,
I”m a novice when it comes to shapening chisels and plane irons. I’ve recently purchased a few chisels and I am assuming I have to touch them up before using them. What tools do I need for sharpening? Are the waterstones better than the oil stones? How beneficial are honing guides? Are they an absolute necessity. And have you ever heard of the eclipse honing guide? I don’t want to spend a fortune on a honing system.
How often do you have to grind chisels? and once you grind them can you just touch them up using a stone?
How does the Shaptons sharpening system compare to the LV sharpening system? I heard the Shapton stones cut extremely fast.
I’ve read about 2 different methods to grind the cutting bevel of chisels and plane irons. #1. using an electric grinder with a tool rest. #2. or you can do it on a coarse sharpening stone which will produce a flat-ground edge rather than a hollow-ground edge.
The author of the article I read uses a DMT extra-coarse stone for grinding his edges and he prefers to use mineral spirits to lubricate his diamond stone. Apparently it evaporates slower than water and won’t allow rust to build up easily on the stone.
Wanda
Replies
Grüß Gott Wanda!
I don't really know that there is a "better" sharpening system; they all work. It's probably more a matter of what you have (or acquire) and get used to using, more than anything else.
I use water stones, and am very happy with the way they work; mine are the King brand combination stones -- 800/4000 and 1200/8000, IIRC. Used to use oil stones, but got tired of the messiness of the oil.
For chisels and plane irons, I freehand sharpen. A honing guide may be useful when you first start out (or you may immediately pick up the techniques and not need one), but I find it much more convenient and faster just to freehand it. The eclipse and the LV MK II both have good reputations, from what I've read.
Shaptons vs LVs? No experience here, although I've read that the Shaptons cut very quickly, as do the Nortons.
I very rarely use a grinder; a coarse stone generally works fine to remove minor nicks and such. A file takes care of those that the coarse stone won't.
You may already know this, so forgive the redundancy if so. For newly-acquired chisels (and plane irons!), it's worth spending the time to polish the first 1 inch or so of the back, and then go to work on the bevel side. I hone mine with a flat bevel and no micro-bevel, and re-hone as soon as they start dulling.
Others will recommend a micro-bevel, a hollow grind, etc. None of these methods are "wrong;" they are merely a different road to getting to the same place -- a sharp chisel. So....pick one that you (think you) will like and give it a try until you become proficient at that method. You may find that you do or don't like it; if not, try another until you become proficient and find the one you really like and will want to stick with.
IME/IMO, sharpening is not rocket science or difficult. Way too many people make way too much of it, and try to turn it into some sort of arcane Mysterie. It ain't -- it's nothing more than putting a sharp edge on the cutting end of your tool...that's it. (Sorry for the rant...)
Beste Wünschen auf ein glückliches und wohlbehaltenes Neues Jahr!
Tschüß!
Mit freundlichen holzbearbeitungischen Grüßen aus dem Land der Rio Grande!!
James
Hi Wanda,
Check this out, http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com all the info and supplies you need can be found there. (-:
Be sure when you are at the Tools for Working Wood that you go to the section marked Museum of Woodworking Tools. In it is a wonderful, detailed approach to honing chisels and plane blades that was written by Maurice Fraser who taught at the Craft Students League which operated in the 52nd. Street YWCA in NYC. A true craftsman--he apprenticed with Jere Osgood--he used skill, knowledge and humor to teach students from all levels of experience including many who had never even held a chisel or used a saw, hand or power. His class was in traditional woodworking . Evening One was sharpening chisels. Evening Two began hand cut dovetails. His meticulous methods are not the only way to work, but they do work.
Hi Wanda
As well as the good advice already given, you may want to look at an article I posted here recently:
http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=33601.1
Regards from Perth
Derek
Hi Wanda,
Like a previous post says, there are as many opinions on sharpening as there are people who'll reply to you. For me, my preference is oil stones. I use the Norton stones 3" wide by 8'" available at Woodcraft, and the Norton honing oil.
I learned to sharpen free hand, but there are some very important basics to be sure you accomplish to have great working chisels. For sure, new chisels you buy will need to be tuned. The key points are to be sure that the back surface of the chisel is flat for at least 1" back from the cutting edge (important for maintaining a sharp edge, and for paring perfectly flat). The second point is that the chisel be jointed at exactly 90 degrees across the front (the cutting edge is 90 degrees to the length of the chisel - perfectly square).
I use my grinder to joint the face square, and create a hollow grind, then true up the back of the chisel on my course or medium stone depending on how much is needed.
This method was well documented in an out-of-print book called the Fundamentals of Fine Woodworking by Will Neptune and Robert Ferencsik who were former students/instructors at the North Bennet Street School, and this was where I learned how to sharpen.
Here's a link to that book at Amazon in case you can find it somewhere: http://www.amazon.com/Fundamentals-Fine-Woodworking-Robert-Ferencsik/dp/0806942509/sr=1-1/qid=1169173546/ref=sr_1_1/103-0851536-7386234?ie=UTF8&s=books
Again, this is only one of many ways, but I recommend it!
...mike
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