Replies

1. 
   whiteoak590 | Dec 27, 2005 06:57am | #1

   JayS,

   Be careful when you "hammer" the teeth.I would suggest using needle nose pliers for back saws with smaller teeth. They are very easy to break off; I know this from experience.

   Rip saws are filed at 90 degrees but crosscut are filed at 35 degrees and also with a downward slope of the file. You are correct when you used the term "knife like teeth" for a crosscut saw as that is exactly how they are shaped. Rip saws are like mini- chisels.

   Most back saws do have too much set in the teeth which makes them diffulcult to use. Back saws work better with a smaller set. Also check to make sure the teeth are joined or all the same height. One tooth taller than the others will gunk up the works.

   also remember that western saws cut on the push stroke. Position of the hand,wrist, elbow, and shoulder should all be in the same plane.

   Dan   

1. 
   JayS | Dec 28, 2005 01:13pm | #3

   I had never read or seen a crosscut saw with those knife like teeth.  For example, the Lie Nielson saws I think are filed with flat teeth "like chisels", only with the 35 degree bevel.  Actually I thought it was 45 degrees, since the teeth are about square.  Is this not correct?

   Jay

2. 
   EdHarrison | Dec 27, 2005 08:02pm | #2

   I started all over with my Paragon saws.  My observation was that when the teeth were stamped out by machine, they had deflected "sideways."  Also, when looked at with a magnifying glass, there was a little curl of metal, sort of like the burr on a scraper, left over from the stamping process.  The tenon I kept as crosscut filed, the dovetail I refiled to rip.  Too much set - aye.  I thought the saws were particularly useless as delivered and it soured me on buying anything else from Garret-Wade (where I bought mine).  I made new handles for them as well.  Also removed the protective coat of lacquer and sanded out that geeky permanent ink stamp that's supposed to look like an etch.  It was a science project that turned into sort of a contest of will, but they work fine now.

   Edit to add: These saws are the perfect example of the worst kind of handtool - the ones that are made to look like expensive tools but are cheaply made.  However because saws are inherently simple tools, they can be made to work correctly.  Good luck.

    

    

   
   

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   Edited 12/27/2005 12:05 pm by EdHarrison

1. 
   JayS | Jan 06, 2006 06:30am | #4

   I refiled the dovetail saw and made a new handle out of walnut, patterned after the lie Nielson independence saw.  It now looks and works great.  I tapped the set out gently and didn't break any teeth, but found there seemed to be a small amount of set that i couldn't remove, so I left it.  The kerf is much thinner than before I started.  Still not sure how to file the tenon saw (crosscut)  Any more detailed advice?

   Jay

1. 
   EdHarrison | Jan 06, 2006 08:37am | #5

   Mr. Tom Law's video on handsaw sharpening,...a really good pair of reading (magnifying) glasses,...the web site with the advice on setting up a little jig for crosscut filing that keeps the angles correct for you,..I think it's http://www.vintagesaws.com, if not, google on Vintage Saws and Pete Taran,...a quality file with a handle,....on the telephone, Mr. Law said you probably don't want to first learn filing on dovetail saws, but rather on larger, panel saws.  I used 8 pt. Disston D-23's avail on ebay for cheap or most fleas that have some old tools,...so satisfying to smoothly crunch through lumber with a saw that you've filed yourself,..good luck, Ed

2. 
   lwj2 | Jan 07, 2006 07:34pm | #6

   Jay, this link may be of help.http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/primer/sharp.htmlLeon