Hi,
It’s recently been pointed out to me that my sharpening technique is flawed. It seems I am ever so slightly rolling the front edge over so I don’t have a perfect union of 2 planes meeting but an ever so slight slope noticeable at 10x magnification.
Here’s how I do it: either sand paper, Nortons or combination. I usually start with a 320 diamond to flatten everything. My stones and granite I use are flattened to as good as I can get. I use side to side motion on the backs holding firmly flat as I can. Nice smooth easy strokes with pressure on the front. I never feel an actual lift of the blades. I hone the face with the Veritas MkII.
My “slope” never seems to show up till about 1500 on the paper and of course it’s impossible to flatten at that grit.
At this point I end up going back and forth hoping the face honing will bring the edge back and eliminate the slope which it usually does..on the 5th or 10th sharpening. But after all the effort on a new blade It’s be nice to get it right away.
Any advice? Am I overly concerned?
Thanks,
Bro. Luke
Replies
Hey Bro-
Are you saying you aren't getting a sharp edge? Let performance be the final judge.
Personally I have no faith whatsoever in my ability to hone by hand. I have so little time to work in my shop that I don't want to waste precious time trying to hold an iron perfectly through the stages of sharpening. Therefore, I am a strong proponent of honing guides ( Veritas Mk II is the bomb ).
FWW readers may now evecerate me for my opinion.__________________________________________________________
Regards,
Sean
First, get yourself a copy of Leonard Lee's book: http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Sharpening-Leonard-Lee/dp/1561581259
Second, here's a really good tutorial that will serve as a reference about your own technique: http://www.antiquetools.com/sharp/
If you're using sandpaper on a solid surface, it might be the case that the paper is curling up slightly as your slide across it. Try using a spray adhesive to glue it down and see what happens.
Bruce
BroLuke,
It appears your saying the 'rolling is happening on the flat side' of the plane blade? Do the 'ruler trick'....and incorporate the roll into the finished product.
Luke,
You don't mention whether you are dissatisfied with the way the blades cut. Maybe your problem is the 10x magnifier...I have a look at the edge with my reading specs, (1.5 diopter) if I can still see the edge, it's not sharp, other wise I go back to work.
Regards,
Ray
It sounds to me that you may be applying to much pressure on your iron when you sharpen, and you may have better luck if you pull the iron on your paper, rather than push. The bottom line is how well it cuts. If it works the way you are doing, so what?
Pedro
I stand everything on it's head and find it easier but it works. After grinding hold the iron in your vice, cutting edge up. Take a small diamond hone, hold it to the bevel with your thumb on the hone and forefinger on the back of the iron and slide the hone back and forth until the bevel has an even shine. Go through finer hand hones until satisfied. If you wish, at the end add a tiny microbevel with the finest hone.
The advantage of this method is you always can see what you are doing, it is quick, easy and clean. Use a little WD40 as a lubricant.
Yes, I can make a suggestion no one has made yet. First, on your sharpening strokes, stop at the end of each stroke instead of immediately reversing direction. Stroke forward, stop. Stroke backward, stop. I find that doing this prevents me from getting sloppy and possibly skewing my edge or screwing up my angles. This is especially true as I get fatigued as I sharpen thru the grits. Second, I also live by the rule of cutting the edge on a stone or sandpaper, e.g. not putting pressure in both directions. When lapping the flat, this is not an issue, go back and forth all you want. But when honing the angled chisel edge, it is very important. I learned this sharpening knives and it's a rule that's served me well. I also learned this sharpening lathe tools as a machinist. In fact, if, when you are honing the chisel edge, you are pushing forward and pulling back with pressure on the back stroke, that's probably where you're messing up the edge (assuming the chisel edge is away from your body as you hone it). Lift enough to relieve the pressure on the tool when you pull back. I lift the tool off the abrasive when pulling it back to my body, then place flat, apply pressure against the abrasive and push forward, honing the edge on the push stroke. This is especially easy when using a jig, just pivot the edge off the abrasive using the wheel and roll it back. Guaranteed outcome with this technique. I also use a jig, just got the Veritas Mk II, great jig. I sharpen knives by hand with no other aids, but the degree of the angle is not so important on a knife, just that it is a consistent angle is most of what is important. On a chisel, the angle of the chisel edge IS important and I can not consistently hold the chisel edge steady AND at the appropriate angle. My sharpening jig takes care of that problem and my outcome is boringly repeatable and consistently sharp.
Jeff
Bro, seems to me that you are over concerned. Is that blade sharp and how do you know that it is sharp?
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