My sharpening set up is a follows: 4 grists of DMT duosharp stones followed by shapton 5,000 and 8,000 grits. (if i hone frequently enough i go directly to the fine dmt and then on to the shaptons). My question is this: if i’m sharpening something that has a primary bevel but no microbevel, at what stage in the sharpening process would you recommend that i put the microbevel on? i was thinking that the fine dmt would be the right time, but maybe i should only be adding it at the 5,000 shapton stage? thanks much, tony.
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Replies
Tony,
My perspective is anything 1000 grit or below is sharpening, honing is above that grit. Re-honing should be relatively frequent with the 5000 and that is where the microbevel should be too....but, I only try to maintain this level of sharpness for finish work. Scrubbing or working with a #5, etc. I'll hit the 1000 a bit and don't worry about going to far on the 5000 and not use the 8000.
thanks, that's what i figured, but wasn't sure. i will set the bevel or hone the primary bevel when necessary with the diamond stones and put the micro bevel on at the 5000 level. best, tony.
My charlesworth sharpening video shows him going from King 1000 directly to 8000. The micro-bevel only takes him about 15 strokes total, that is to make the slight curve in the blade.
I don't recall if he started it on the 1000 from the last two sleepless nights, but the 5000 should be more than sufficient.
Alan
great, thanks alan, i actually tried last night but not with great success. i seem to have no problem whatsoever setting a primary bevel and getting a very keen edge all the way up to 8,000, sharpening freehand (ie, no jig), but when i tried to put the microbevel on (also freehand), everything fell apart, ie, the chisel got dull! obviously poor technique. not sure what i'm doing wrong, but guess i'll just have to practice, keep trying. i'm not practicing on a particularly fine set of chisels, so no concern there. tony.
Do you have a loupe to examine the edge? Currently I'm using the veritas jig, but I have a no 8 that I starting to sharpen by hand. It's not too sharp yet either.Alan
>...sharpening freehand (ie, no jig), but when i tried to put the microbevel on (also freehand), everything fell apart, ie, the chisel got dull!<
I think you'd have better luck using a jig, particularly when honing the secondary bevel. If you set up to do your primary bevel in a jig, all you need to do is pull the chisel back a centimeter or so, and hone 10 or 15 times at 8000 (or 10,000). Often times with a chisel that's done some hard work (e.g. cutting dovetails into cherry or maple), I'll just lightly hone the back and then touch up the secondary bevel- in 60 seconfs you're ready to go.
Glaucon
I go right from the King 1200 stone to a 4000 or 8000 with the nagura (sp?) stone for the micro. Been doing it that way for years.
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