Goodmorning everyone, I hope some of you can give me some help. I have recieved some hand me down carving tools,(sa.V-tool,gouges,etc.)and I am having some problems sharpening them. Particularly on my Delta wet slow grinder. What is happening is, as the edge is being formed the end of the blade seem to erode away and give a jagged edge. Is it poor metal hardeness? technic? Any ideas? I would apreciate your input.
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
Wyatt,
Jazzdogg sent a message to another person yesterday which lists three websites that can help you. Here they are:
http://www.chrispye-woodcarving.com
http://www.norahall.com/
http://www.furniturecarver.com/carving.html
The last of the three is by Lee Gringinger. You will see his name on Knots. He is the resident woodcarving expert. Chris Pye's website is the first one. He has a good book out which includes sharpening. You can get it on Amazon. The website for that book is:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1861082029/002-4257892-7139250?n=283155
Chris Pye's website lists a number of books both by him and other authors.
Hope that helps.
Mel
Measure your output in smiles per board foot.
Hi and good afternoon (from Italy).
I would check the grit of the sharpening wheel and
how much pressure you put on the tool being sharpened.
Anyway, carving tools are normally honed manually using shaped oil or water stone. I use water ones because I dislike the oily mess, but is only a personal taste matter.
Famous carvers declare they do the final honing on leather with sharpening paste, but I never get any further benefit after honing on 8000, probably my skill is not enough.
Hope this help.
Alastar Moody
wyatt,
The ragged edge is what you'd expect from a grinding wheel. They are best used for shaping a damaged edge or establishing a hollow grind on plane irons or bench chisels. I only take a carving tool to the grinder to change the bevel angle or the like.
Sharpening carving tools requires a set of shaped sharpening stones (hones, whetstones, whetrocks), called slipstones. They come in various types and shapes, from round edged ones with flat sides, tapered in section, to bevelled knife edges, tapered cones, etc. The round edged slips are the most useful for gouges, and the knife edged ones for vee chisels. The ones I have are India brand (by Norton) and Arkansas (a natural, quarried stone). Available from any of the suppliers of carving tools, like Woodcraft, or the like.
Use the stones by alternately rubbing the inside and the bevel, until the ragged edge disappears, and you cannot see the edge by looking directly at it in a good light.
Lee Grindinger has given good descriptions of the niceties of sharpening and edge geometry on this forum in other threads. A search might turn something up.
Give my regards to Virgil, Morgan, and Doc.
Regards,
Ray Pine
It sounds like it's the wire edge you're seeing that results from the grinding, it can be quite large. It will be larger if the grinding wheel is moving away from the tool. Removing this wire properly is important to the edge. Stropping works as do slips.
You need slips, as Joinerswork mentioned. In the thread entitled "Honing compound for carving tools" in the Turning and carving folder I reccommended two books on the matter and dug up an old thread about edge geometry.
I've known tools that would not hold an edge but it's very rare, I suspect all you need is a bit of information and practice.
Lee
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled