When sharpening chisels / plane irons: Do you only push, only pull or go back and forth? How about when flatenning the backs?
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Replies
I go back and forth in a straight line. I also use a lot of pressure, easing up with narrower blade widths.
I usually go in a figure 8 (it keeps your stones flat) then finish up in a sraight line
To each his own. I find it more difficult to hold the correct angle if I have to move it around in any pattern except straight. I could use a honing guide but that doubles the time it takes to sharpen.
G-
If you are going to sharpen freehand (no guide), lay the bevel on the stone at a 45 degree angle with the handle turned towards your dominant hand. This give the blade the best purchase on the stone, and minimizes the accidental rocking of the cutting edge into the stone. You can either push and pull or a figure eight, whatever feels best to you. Move the blade in a smooth, fluid motion to minimize uneven honing of the bevel. When flattening the back of the blade, you want to place about 1.5" on the edge of the stone with the handle hanging off the side. Lay two or three fingers flat on top of the blade, and move back and forth in a fluid motion. Use care to keep the blade perfectly flat as you move, you do not want to round the edges of the blade, or worse yet, hone a back bevel on your freshly tuned edge!
I use a combination of diamond stones (DMT DuoSharp), Norton waterstones, and the "scary sharp" method of wet/dry sandpaper on float glass. The plane blades, jointer knives, chisels, and other cutting blade tools in my shop are devastatingly sharp, and with the correct bevel angle, stand up to hours of hard use before needing to be rehoned.
Please feel free to contact me with any questions you may have.
Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
Leonard Lee has a book that Taunton published. The Complete Sharpening or something. That book is a must have.
For what its worth I use a push stroke only.
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