Being new to turning, I’m looking for input on what recommendations you have on sharpening turning tools. After limited research, it appears as though an 8″ grinder is essential but I still have questions on the speed, necessity of variable speed, grit of the stones, width of the stones, tool rest jigs, etc. I do have a dvd by Raffan, which is an older dvd, but his approach to sharpening seems quick and elementary, which is great. I just wasn’t sure how much sharpening has evolved since the release of the dvd to where better methods may exist. Thanks, Brett
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Replies
Brett,
The 8" grinder is a good choice, as it gives less of a hollow grind than a 6". I don't believe you need variable speed, or even slow speed. Most of the time, you will be just touching up the edge and it won't even have a chance to heat up. Now, if you are regrinding, that is a different story. Just take it slow so as not to ruin the temper.
I use the OneWay Wolverine system and am very happy with it. It is very easy to use and get repeatable results (which translates into less time at the grinder. Some people like to grind freehand - that is a skill I have not had time to acquire yet.
Don't use the stock gray wheels that come with the grinder. I use white Norton wheels, but they seem a little too soft. I will try the blue wheels when I wear these out.
I sharpen most of my tools on a 6" grinder running at 3460 RPM. I use a 120 grit wheel from Norton, but I don't know which kind. I do know it is not white or blue. As far as jigs, I don't use them, because they all seem more complicated than just free handing it. I sharpen the skews on a belt sander and they are the only tools that get honed, the rest are used straight from the grinder.
Rob Millard
http://www.americanfederalperiod.com
Brett, I just went through all this last fall, after taking a turning class and uncovering my lathe. An 8" grinder isn't "essential" but IMHO it's better than a 6" -- less hollow in the grind, wider wheels (1" v. 3/4").
Raffan's DVD is good -- I have both the first version and the newest version -- but if you want a really good, practical sharpening DVD, get the one from the American Assoc. of Woodturners. I've linked their home page below, then go to "Shopping" (link at top, on the right), and then "DVDs & Tapes: Instructional". Non-members can buy, you just don't get the $10 discount.
https://www.woodturner.org/
The other thing I've been told over and over is to get involved with a local chapter, the members will help with all kinds of stuff.
Back to the hardware.........I have the Wolverine set-up with the VeriGrind 2. I would not buy the VG2 again, but would rather opt for the original VG -- less bulky.
However, that being said, I'm not sure I'd buy the Wolverine again. There is another outfit on the market, the Sharp Fast by Woodcraft, that I would definitely take a look at first. I've provided a Woodcraft link and a video link below. IMHO, the gouge holder is an improvement over the Wolverine design.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2021150/24542/Sharp-Fast-Tool-Guide-System.aspx
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AbaBfmtW1E8
GRINDERS: Ixnay on the Delta variable speed grinder. Seems like an ideal solution, but it is fraught with design and materials problems and was a huge disappointment to me. And many others too! can't tell you how many threads out there re: the Delta. I opted for the Woodcraft slow-speed grinder. Also a low-end grinder, but better than the Delta, cheaper, leaving you more money to get decent stones with, which you will definitely need! for any grinder except maybe a Tormek? If you can afford one, a nice way to go. ;-)
1" wheels for sure. Norton. Lots of opinions on which ones. 60-grit and 120-grit works. You'll be reshaping some tips, so you'll need a course stone that grinds cool.
Thanks, I appreciate all of the information. Has anyone looked at the 8" grinder from Penn State Industries?
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/GRIND2X.html
Also, I've seen homemade versions of these sharpening jigs that appear to accomplish the same result as some of the store-bought, expensive jigs. For example, I've seen several videos with a v-shaped, 90 degree stop for the handle and an adjustable stop to allow the bevel to maintain the factory angle. Any thoughts on theses?
I think there are several people over at Sawmill Creek who use home-made versions. If I hadn't been in a hurry to get Christmas presents started, I'd have gone that way, as $$ is quite short these days!
I made my own version of the wolverine and several jigs gleened from various sites. Works great. I did spring for a One-Way Vari-grind (version #1) jig for bowl gouges, but even these can be shop-made. I also have the Raffan video and he makes free-hand sharpening look easy, and many turners swear by free-hand. I just think it's faster with a jig. I have a Woodcraft grinder but they have been having quality control issues lately, according to some other forums. Penn State has always done right by me. Good luck.
Dennis
Do you mind sharing some photos of these jigs? I've seen this video below, which copies the Wolverine, but I'm not sure how the other two jigs, which are just referenced for skew chisels, are used.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BCVqWR1FcM0
Also, I did purchase the Woodcraft grinder at a closeout price of $99 as it was the last one they had. What quality control issues are they having? I did read the reviews on Woodcraft.com about missing parts (washers) and I experienced the same issues. Not a big deal but it just makes you wonder as to the quality of the machine.
Thanks for all of the help,
Brett
brett,
free-hand on a 6x48 belt sander works sweetly for me for grinding the bevel, followed with a few swipes, flat side down, on a whet stone.
eef
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