I am looking at building a small (4′ x 8′ x 7′) shed to house the lawn mower, garden tools and a bike. The basic plan is a no brainer, but for the siding, I am planning on using cedar and am looking at putting on horizontally. I am undecided if I should use a shiplap joint or if I should go with overlapping planks like on a house. Any thoughts on the options?
1 – measure the board twice, 2 – cut it once, 3 – measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 – get a new board and go back to step 1
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Why consider something aside from cedar siding the same as on houses? But if you put this one on Breaktime I'm sure you can fire up some debate.
DR
I am looking at using cedar siding, my question is weather it is better to use a shiplap joint or just a straight overlap.1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
Rick, I don't want to pretend to be knowledgable about this. But I don't see what advantage a shiplap has over plain overlap, unless it is necessary to compensate for thick material. But probably at Breaktime, as I said, someone will give you their learned opinion. My brother's house is done in cedar siding, plain overlap, and seems perfect after 20 some years. Personally I wouldn't think twice about doing it the simple way.
DR
Shiplap, for one look, would give a flat side as opposed to an overlapped look. I have posted this in breaktime as well, but have not reveivied much reply there.1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
Shiplap is harder to repair when the time comes and, of course, you will see face nailing. If you don't use SS nails, you'll get ugly, black streaking. Galvanized with buy you more time than uncoated, but they will eventually corrode, too, depending on quality. Shiplap can be blind-nailed, which looks a lot nicer, IMO. If you are painting your building instead of going natural, consider a fiber-cement siding like Hardieplank. It holds paint wonderfully, works with carbide tools (sacrifice an old blade in your chop saw), and won't rot, cup, split, or warp. I would imagine it's cheaper, too, though i don't know what cedar goes for in your area. If you must use cedar, you need to use felt behind it instead of something like Tyvek bec cedar can rot the plastic, or else do a rainscreen construction. You should backprime, too.
This is a garden/potting shed that I built for my wife.
For the siding, I ship lapped random width pine and hung it vertically. My wife was after the weathered look. It has worked out well.
Construction photos here
http://www.superwoodworks.com/Projects/Shed.htm
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http://www.superwoodworks.com
Real Nice - Beyond what I plan though. I plan to run the boards horizontally for concern of water penetration. ( the lovely, yet wet Pacific NW)1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
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