Shelix endorsement – Now this is livin’!
I recently installed a Shelix cutterhead on my 8″ jointer. While jointing a piece of cedar I “inherited”, I discovered a nail the hard way. After a few choice words, I rotated the two damaged cutters and I’m back in business! This sure beats waiting for knives to be re-sharpened then spending hours aligning them.
Replies
Even with a Shelix I betcha a metal detector is cheaper and easier. It doesn't need to be treasure hunting grade with discrimination circuits. Just something that howls at metal.
BJ
Your probably right. I think I'll also never accept used lumber again.
Quickstep,
I've ordered the 20" planer Shelix.... I was wondering about a concern I'd heard about overtightening can cause the brittle carbide squares to shap/shatter.
After your rotated, and retightened, did you use their supplied screwdriver-like tool, or did you use the optional torque wrench?
Thanks,
Bill
Edited 6/25/2007 6:31 pm ET by BilljustBill
I just used the screwdriver they suppplied. I'm not strong enough to break one of the cutters that way. If I were using something that let me supply more leverage, I would use a torque wrench. What is the torque spec????
If I were using something that let me supply more leverage, I would use a torque wrench. What is the torque spec????
I haven't a clue for the torque specs.... Maybe a call or email to ask them and then publish it here???? ;>)
All I remember is that the purchase of their "Optional" screwdriver handle style torque wrench cost about $65.... The cutterhead was I cared to purchase...got to stop somewhere...
Bill
Guys,
I have reason to be involved with these inserts in a production environment.
Not wood, but metal cutting. The inserts are the same except for the cutting angle ground in them.
The maintenance guys crank these down using "cheater bars" the only limitation is in the hex head fastener not rounding out.
The carbide is not that fragile. Consider the impact it takes every time it strikes the wood! We also take the worn inserts and braze them to the end of screwdriver shaft to make scrapers to take down metal "humps" and they work just fine for that without shattering. Really - the carbide is not that fragile.
Of course, the best method would be to use a torque wrench. The proper torque will be defined by the fastener - not the carbide insert. I would look in the machinery handbook for the fastener torque based on thread size.
Mike
Mike,
Thanks for the insight on those carbide inserts. It's good to know!!
I was wondering what your take is on the cost? Both Byrd and Retailers sell a set of 10 inserts for a cost between $24-$29. I understand that the grinding for wooodworking requires more of an angle than metal, and hence more time and labor to make them.
What do those inserts actually cost, compared to the prices above?
Thanks,
Bill
Bill,
A pack of SCMW style inserts runs about $7.79 per pack of 10 for the generic, about 50% higher for a brand name. (thats the square ones with a countersunk hole)
Do a google search for "carbide insert" and a number of choices will pop up.
You will need to know the size overall, the hole dia, the countersink dia and depth, and the angle in order to order the correct insert.
Good news is that, like bearings, once you have an identification number, then you can order the inserts from whomever you please.
Mike
I thought the Shelix inserts weren't square, but had a slight radius in the edge.
This is due the fact that they are angled, not parallel to the cutterhead cylinder axis, in order to acheive a "shear" cut. Consequently, if the cutters were straight, they would leave ridges on the board.
I'd be worried about stripping the thread on the cutterhead cylinder more than cracking an insert. That would be a bad day. :(
BarryO
No idea what the shelix insert is like, was asked for a price on a similar type insert.
BilljustBill, had the thread concern.
Mike
If I wanted to play with carbide inserts, what angle would one start with. It would seem to be pretty easy to make a lathe turning (scraping?) tool from a piece of rod and a handle.
Dloc,
not sure how to answer, I have just gotten a lathe and have little experience.
reading about sharpening scrapers, seems to indicate 80 to 90 degrees.
How are you going to change the angle? Carbide is commonly ground using diamond hones with a coolant bath.
Still, I have seen some turning tools with a small interchangeable insert, so they must work.
Try asking your question in the turning section of knots.
Sorry I could not be of more help,
Mike
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