Replies

1. 
   BG | Jan 09, 2003 07:30pm | #1

   Janet,

   I'm in the process of applying shellac right now to draw fronts.  The 1 1/2 pound cut is a joy to work with.  I'm not sure how many coats I'll apply, but I fugure 6 will probably give me a sufficient base to rub out with parrafin oil and 600 grit paper. 

   I used the flakes with Behlens (sp.) instead of the alcohol.  I have no idea how you tell if the alcohol has too much water in it. 

1. 
   DWRead | Jan 09, 2003 07:33pm | #2

   Is Behlens the brand of alcohol?

   Janet

1. 
   BG | Jan 09, 2003 07:35pm | #3

   janet,

   Behlens makes a liquid that is specifically designed for shellac flakes...they claim they dissolve better.

1. 
   jeffn7 | Jan 09, 2003 11:45pm | #5

   The product name is Bekhol, it's a proprietary solvent that, as you said, is specifically formulated for shellac. It's really superior to denatured alcohol.

1. 
   BG | Jan 10, 2003 01:17am | #7

   Thanks Jeff for the correct spelling. 

2. 
   jeffn7 | Jan 10, 2003 01:30am | #8

   You had it correct, the product name is Bekhol and it is produced and marketed by Behlens.

   j

3. 
   DWRead | Jan 10, 2003 01:43am | #9

   Do you know if it can be used on wood that will contain food? I'd ask Behlens directly, but I can't find a website for the company.

   Janet

4. 
   BG | Jan 10, 2003 01:47am | #10

   janet,

   Shellac is very safe..and the solvent evaporates...they use shellac in candy.

   But, shellac does not stand up to water well..

   Edited 1/9/2003 5:49:25 PM ET by BG

5. 
   jeffn7 | Jan 10, 2003 02:58am | #11

   As has been already said, shellac is very safe (it's actually a natural substance, a secretion from the Lac bug).

   as for Behkol, it's a solvent that evaporates when cured (I'm pretty sure it's primarily alcohol... and we all know that's somewhat safe, except when it makes us do dumb things!)

2. 
   KevinLBS | Jan 09, 2003 11:35pm | #4

   Janet-

   Really, just mix your own shellac. It's as easy as making Kool-Aid, but you just have to let it sit for a few days before use. When mixing your own, you can buy de-waxed shellac or with the wax.  As for the alchohol, use very good quality denatured anhydrous (aka no water) alchohol.  I've been testing some pieces for the first time ever with shellac (mixed my own) and I love it.  Read more on these following websites for more expert info.

   Good sources for shellac include, but are not limited to:

   http://www.rockler.com

   http://www.shellac.net

   http://www.woodfinishingsupplies.com

   Go for it!

   Kevin

3. 
   wop | Jan 10, 2003 12:59am | #6

       the brand of alcohol doesn't matter there should always be declared the percentage or degrees of alcohol which should be minimum 94% pure alcohol. The remaining 6% is basically water. Shellac will disolve in a number of solvents ethanol is usually the cheapest because you don't pay for a "brand name" and works fine.

                                                          Philip

1. 
   UncleDunc | Jan 10, 2003 03:13am | #12

   Another thing to keep in mind is that alcohol will absorb moisture out of the air. If you live in a humid climate and are forgetful about recapping your alcohol, the concentration printed on the label might not be very meaningful.

1. 
   GeeSeaWhy | Jan 10, 2003 08:14pm | #15

   I think that's probably what Popular Woodworking meant in the original post. I have been getting good results with regular denatured alcohol from the hardware store.

   Just to clarify some of the earlier posts, denatured alcohol is 95% ethanol (the "active ingredient" in rum, gin etc.). The other 5% is methanol, which is toxic and added to make the stuff undrinkable. All the alcohol evaporates when the shellac dries, leaving a safe, non-toxic finish.

   HTH

   Graeme

4. 
   BenM | Jan 10, 2003 02:53pm | #13

   Yes, the information is correct.  It seems counter-intuitive that shellac without wax is more water resistant than shellac with wax but that's the way it is.

5. 
   davamoore | Jan 10, 2003 04:50pm | #14

   Janet, if you accidentally get a bit of water in the alcohol or alcohol/shellac mixture, or if you find out that the humidity is too high on the day you apply the shellac, and you get that milky-white bloom when the shellac dries on your piece, it's very easy to correct.

   Simply moisten a clean rag with alcohol and lightly swipe it across the milky areas.  The alcohol should dissolve the shellac just enough and allow the water to evaporate, clearing the bloom.

   David

   Look, I made a hat -- Where there never was a hat!