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Replies
Hi Steve,
I've been able to avoid 'gatoring with multiple thin coats, either sprayed, ragged, padded, or brushed. When brushing or ragging, I lightly scuff-sand between coats.
I've found that viscosity has a direct bearing on surface texture and flow-out; most of the challenges our students face seem to happen when they're trying to apply 3#, or even 2#, when 1# or 1.5# is more appropriate.
When it hot & humid I find it more challenging to get decent results. Substituting Bekhol for denatured alcohol seems to mitigate the effects somewhat.
Applying shellac over oil-based products that haven't cured completely, or to wood with too high a MC, can also cause the shellac to cure improperly.
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Steve,
I'd recommend a marine varnish for your alligators. Shellac will turn white the first time they go back in to the swamp. My mom had an alligator handbag years ago. It was pretty shiny but I think it probably had a lacquer finish on it. Hope this helps.
Hahahahahah, sorry the title of your thread had that effect on me.
Cheers,
Ray
Ray,
Marine varnish may be ok on the alligators, but if you ever have to work with crocodiles, it's epoxy or nothing. Them crocs are mean and tough and they just wear that varnish away fast.
Ever tried french polishing an alligator? Annoys the s**t out of them!
Rich
Edited 6/30/2006 5:32 pm ET by Rich14
Rich,
The marine varnish I use is plenty tough enough for crocs. It's put on by real Marines. French polish is for frogs.
Man where are we going with this?
Ray
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