I am in the process of finishing a large pedestal desk that I recently built. I have used dewaxed shellac for the pedestals and was planning on using lacquer on the top. However after doing a couple of test pieces with the lacquer, I found that it’s not something I’m very good at applying (lots of brush marks). Instead of using the lacquer on the top, I was considering doing a few coats of the shellac and then a couple coats of polyurethane over top to add protection.
Is this a no-no or is it okay to combine the two? The polyurethane directions seem to say it’s okay as long as the shellac is dewaxed, but I’m not sure.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dan Black
Replies
Evidently, the wax in shellac does not have good adhesion for other finish products, but from my research, shellac without wax has good adhesion capabilities for other finish products...
SOOooo, you should be good to go with a lacquer or Polyurethane over the non waxed shellac. I am building some kitchen cabinet doors/drawers, and I plan on doing the non-waxed shellac prior to my polyurethane finish as well..
Just becareful, non waxed shellac has a short shelf life, so make sure it cures before you put the polyurethane on top...
Sure you can do that. But Im sure if its gonna eliminate the brush marks. I think you can do that only by spraying IMO.
Darkworks: Its all 'bout da squilla
As long as you use dewaxed shellac, you can overcoat it with poly varnish.
If you want to eliminate brush marks and your varnishing skills are not up to par, try using a wiping varnish. Mix your favorite varnish 50/50 with mineral spirits. Wipe it one like the kid at Denny's wipes your table. Just get it on fairly quickly and don't go back over it if you miss a spot. You will get it on the next coat.
Put on three coats one after the other as soon as the prior coat loses its tackiness (maybe 30-45 minutes). Let the three coats dry for 2-3 days and then sand to get it flat. Now wipe on 4-5 more coats one after the other. You will have a nice, flat, smooth finish. Let the whole thing dry for 3-4 weeks and then apply a coat of paste wax using grey scotchbrite pade or 4/0 steel wool. Buff and stand back and admire.
If you're already using a brushing lacquer, you can add retarder to extent the open time which will help the brush marks settle. If you're not using brushing lacquer, I'm surprised your brush didn't tun into a club! But it's fun to think about.
You can use dewaxed blond shellac under just about anything, lacquer and poly included. If you want to do the poly, cutting it with a little mineral spirits will also thin it down enough that it not only brushes easier, the brush marks level out well.
My vote is for spraying the lacquer. Nothing easier, unless you don't have spray equipment, but then hey, great excuse to hit the spouse up for enough dough to get a good setup. (But honey, it'll only cost me a grand for the WXP-9000 system so I can finish the end table!!!)
"The child is grown / The dream is gone / And I have become / Comfortably numb " lyrics by Roger Waters
Thanks for the info everyone. I'll give it a go with the poly.
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