I’ve been thinking about trying to use this combination but the recent cold snap (south coastal BC) and power outages have put a stop to any meaningful experimentation for a while. Has anyone used this and what sort of results? Problems, tricks or techniques? And if this has been covered, I’d like a push in the right direction. Thanks!
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Replies
I use dewaxed shellac as a sealer on all my work and top coat it with Target Coatings waterborne lacquer. I've been using this system for quite some time now without problems, avoid the use of steel wool until you have completed all your finish application, you can use it on the final rub out if you wish, and there are special tack cloths for use when waterborne coatings are to be used.
Ron
Thanks, Ronaway- this is what I was hoping to hear.
One of the reasons that I've stayed with the solvent shellac is that the garnet and dark garnet varieties give me a nice rich amber undercoat to the waterborne top coat. The appearance of the waterborne topcoats have improved over the last couple of years but without the amber colored shellac I think they still look a bit cool. The shellac under the waterborne looks a lot like solvent varnish when rubbed out.Ron
How long do the Target water based products need to cure prior ro rubbing out the finish? Do you use the aame process as regular lacquer? I normally wait around a month on solvent based lacquer. It is a pain to use, and I hate dealing with the smell and cleanup even though I work out side and use a respirator.
I have rubbed out the Target USl in as little as 48 hours. In that process I wet sanded with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper and then rubbed out with steel wool. For a more elaborate rub out I would probably wait 5 days.Ron
I've had good luck using zinzser seal coat with trans tint dyes added. You can get results similar to using amber or garnet shellac without going thru the process of using de-waxed flakes. I have to admit the natural colored shellacs seem to have a richer depth of color, but the dyes offer more possibilities to shift the color. I've even used alittle green dye to help shift from a red toned wood to a warm brown.
I've used the seal coat over stained wood,under both solvent lacquer and waterborne top coats. You have to use dewaxed shellac to be safe, or you risk having a poor bond with the waterborne stuff.
I've been able to get an almost dead on match to existing cabinets if customers want to only replace the doors, or add some new cabinets etc.
I use an inexpensive hvlp spray gun (wagner fine spray) and it does an amazing job almost as good as my expensive unit. I even bought additional guns so i can have different tints in each gun if I need to tweek an area to a different shade.
Not to beat a dead horse, but the solvent in normal shellac is merely alchohol. It doesn,t smell too bad, and can be used in cold weather. Normal shellac dries for a second coat in an hour or so. The second coat can take overnight, depending on how much you thinned it.
This works fine--as long as you use dewaxed shellac. No particular problems, though as you know waterborne finishes can't be used when the temperature drops. Shellac can be used at over a much wider range of temperatures.
Target makes a water borne wax free shellac that can be used as a tie or barrier coat between say a well dried oil based stain and water borne finish, or just to enhance the look of the wood. It can be sprayed without the added risks of spraying solvent shellac.
However, this Target product has almost no water resistance and should not be used as a top coat.
ZInsser makes a product called Sealcoat which is an alcohol based 2# cut of completely dewaxed shellac. It will go cleanly over about anything, and can be topcoated with about anything. It dries in minutes. It is very good stuff. We have talked about it recently on other shellac threads in this forum.
Sealcoat has been mentioned numerous times, and no disrespect of it was intended. If the poster of the original question is interested in water borne topcoats he might be more interested in water borne shellac than solvent based shellac. At the very least, it would be nice to share with him or her that there is a water borne shellac alternative to solvent based shellac, which was the sole purpose of the prior response.
Looked to me as if the poster was interested in shellac and a water borne topcoat. I didn't read that to mean that he wanted water borne shellac. If he does, he does.
No disrespect to the waterborne dewaxed product you mentioned, but you did say that it had low tolerance for water. An alcohol-based product has less of a problem in that respect. That is why I mentioned it. I don't sell this stuff for a living or make a commission, you know. Just thought to share favorable experience.
OF course, it is up to the poster to look into the merits of the two products and decide which is more appropriate for his use.
The value of starting a thread like this one is the stuff i didn't know and might never have learned- I'd never heard of water-borne shellac; I intend to check it out-thanks!
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