What am I risking if I only put 2-3 coats of a 2lb cut of blonde shellac over a gel-stained cherry display table? Is a topcoat required or will several coats of the shellac be acceptable? Note: the table is for displaying/storing LP records and will probably not have any drinks or other items placed on its top.
I was hoping to use wipe on poly after the shellac, but the notes I’ve read/received forewarned of delamination if I used this method without dewaxing the shellac. I tried to separate/dewax the shellac but it did not separate, so need advice on how to proceed.
Thanks,
Brian
Replies
bmyyou
I have finsihed three cherry tables and a dozen other cherry items in shellac only. I prefer it, as to my eye, poly adds a bit too much amber to the color, and is less forgiving in application. SHellac as topcoat is fine for low-wear use like a display table, and has the advantage of being much more repairable. Only disadvantage is that it is less water resistant, and alcohol and ammonia soluble, so possible damage if you get that on it. No advantage to use shellac first and then topcoat with poly that I can see.
Shellac makes a wonderful top coat, with some care. It is more water resistant than most people give it credit for, and spilling a glass of wine or even a martini will do no harm unless allowed to stay. It is one of the most attractive finishes, readily rubbed out to whatever gloss you want.
It isn't as durable as varnish. Ammonia can dissolve it, as can pure alcohol. It is hard, and can therefore be scratched. But with moderate use it will be fine.
However, if you do want a varnish finish for extra chemical resistance you can still apply it. Traditional resin varnishes, with alkyd or phenolic resins, will adhere just fine to shellac even containing wax. Just scuff sand the surface and you can apply any varnish except polyurethane or water borne. If you want to wipe it on, you can buy varnish, such as Waterlox, that is already thinned for wiping, or you can take any varnish--such as Behlen's Rockhard, or Pratt & Lambert no. 38 and add thinner until you get to wiping consistency. Equal portions are often recommended, but there is nothing at all critical about the mix.
Zinsser makes a dewaxed, very clear shellac called SealCoat. It goes on over anything, and anything can be put over it as a topcoat. I have used it quite successfully to seal old floors (clean floors, of course) where a new finish was wanted without destroying the patina. I use two coats of standard 4# blond shellac over it on floors with good results. I could use poly or varnish but prefer not to. I have also used it on bookcases and cabinets.SealCoat dries in 45 minutes. Later coats of shellac take longer, despite marketing claims. It will stand up to floor traffic after a coupls of days, and hits full cured strength in 3 months.Another characteristic of shellac is that it will stop all bleed through of sap and resin (even in fur and pine), and of prior finishes. On pine, some use a dewaxed product like SealCoat prior to applying a stain. The result is an even color unlike the usual experience with pine.Bottom line, use on shelves is no problem at all.
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