I’m finishing a cherry chest of drawers. My latest process is to seal with Shellac and then finish with either oil based varnish or poly, depending on final use. How would Shellac stand up as a final finish?
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Replies
It might be ok. But most of my early projects eventually needed refinishing, because the shellac just doesn't hold up to any moisture, and even average daily use will show a lot of wear.
A lot of folks will say that shellac just needs to be treated carefully. No one I know is that careful, apparently.
Most everything I make these days gets 2 or 3 coats of dewaxed shellac, to get the color and depth I like. Then it gets one or 2 light coats of water based poly, usually the General Finishes brand. It doesn't change the look of the shellac, and protects much better, especially to anything damp.
I never care to refinish one of my own pieces again.
Yes. It can be damaged by contact with alcohol, but in my experience, the damage is not immediate, especially if the finish gets a coat of paste wax. Slight damage can be abraded out and is easily repairable by padding on very thin shellac.
johnbarfielddesign.com
I should also add that as a furniture conservator, I and many of my colleagues used shellac as a final finish on many museum pieces. It is also the finish of choice of some contemporary makers, such as James Krenov
johnbarfielddesign.com
Shellac would probably be fine assuming it is a piece of bedroom furniture. If it's was a kitchen table used for everything from meals to school art projects then maybe shellac isn't enough.
I've used shellac as a final coat on shop cabinets that get far more use than a bedroom dresser and it's held up fine.
For a cherry hutch that gets a lot of use in our kitchen I went with garnet shellac followed by water base poly.
If you are brushing shellac three coats should Be enough. If wiping it on then maybe six coats as it's thinner. I usually brush and sand between coats with 320 or 400 grit.
Mike
“[Deleted]”
I've used shellac on pieces that I don't expect to get a lot of wear and tear... but anytime (and I have to admit, most of the time) I'm making a table or something that does get used heavily... I prefer General Finishes satin top coat Oil and Urethane. It gives me the look I want... and the daily toughness I need. It's not anything you would use when you are trying to maintain a museum piece... but I've always thought thats its what the early masters would have used if they could have :-)
Fresh, dewaxed shellac wears surprisingly well if properly applied. If you want more, VJ over at shellacfinishes.com has a catalyzed shellac you can use as the final few coats. It will withstand almost anything.
I like shellac as a final finish on smaller projects. On surfaces where I need a little more protection like tabletops, I'll wipe on a couple coats of varnish on top of the shellac.
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