Replies

1. 
   RMillard | Dec 18, 2005 09:30pm | #1

   Stig,

   Shellac is by far my favorite finish. It looks and feels great, has a proven track record, and is easily repairable. It can produce any finish from a very high gloss to one that looks like oiled wood. Its only downside is it that it is not very scratch resistant, and of course it is not alcohol resistant.

   I like the de waxed dark and super blond grades. The dark works well with dark woods, but must be applied carefully to avoid streaks. The blond builds well without obscuring the grain or changing colors too much. There are many other grades, with orange being the most common.

   I always mix mine from flakes. I don't bother with careful measuring, and the whole "cut: concept is to me a waste of time. I pour in some flakes and enough alcohol to cover them. Let this sit overnight. Sometimes the shellac will sit in a lump at the bottom of a jar, so you'll have to stir. Then I add enough alcohol to to have the shellac nearly as thin as water. It would seem like the shellac would never build if it is this thin, but because of its quick drying nature, many coats can be applied in one day.

   I use high quality artist brushes made for water color ( golden taklon) to apply the shellac.  I'm not a fan of padding it on, so I can't describe that process. I sometimes add Homestead Finishing Products Shellac Wet, to slowed the set time of the shellac. This will let the shellac flow out and lay down very smooth. Because shellac dries so quickly, if you miss a spot or don't like the look of an area, don't go over with the brush, as this will make a mess. Instead just wait and hit it with the next coat.

   I usually apply one coat of the dark shellac and about 5 coats of the blond. This will result in a very nice high sheen. If you need a high gloss you'd have to apply 2-3 more coats. On some of the early reproductions I make, I apply 1 dark and 2 blond coats, to result in that "in the wood" look. Let it cure for 3-5 days and sand lighly and carefully but thoroughly with 400 grit paper, followed by steel wool dipped in 4f pumice with mineral oil as a lubricant. Moldings can't always be sanded, so just use the steelwool/pumice and oil on them. Carvings  are rubbed out with a shoe shine brush charged with the pumice and oil. Use warm soapy water to remove the oil and wax if desired. The soapy water won't harm shellac.

   Rob Millard

1. 
   Stig | Dec 19, 2005 06:07am | #4

   Thank You Rob.

   I printed out printed out your message and will use it in the future.

   This is a great way to learn. Only in America!!!

   Stig.

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 19, 2005 04:15am | #2

   Do as Rob said.  The golden taklon brush is important--even very good bristle brushes just don't do the same job.  As the finish builds the interval between coats should grow.  The key is to STOP immediately if the brush appears to drag.  That means the coat you are applying now is too quickly melting into the previous coat, potentially "rumpeling" it up. 

   Zinsser Seal Coat is dewaxed orange shellac that is pre-mixed at two pound cut, a good mix for brushing.  It works ok, but you don't have the flexibility that you have if you mix flakes yourself. 

   Two pound cut just means two pounds of dry shellac flakes are mixed with one gallon of alcohol.  The only time when the mix is at all critical is when using it as a wash coat for controlling stain.  Otherwise it hardly matters, though I find really thick shellac (4-5 lb. cut ) considerably more difficult to apply evenly. 

   Shellac is a great finish, underused.  I use it for just about any furniture except table tops where things might be spilled. 

    

1. 
   ganderwood | Dec 19, 2005 05:24am | #3

   I just started using shellac, but have quickly fallen in love with the stuff.  I too have been mixing my own.  If you are looking for a durable finish while using shellac, I have discovered a great product to use for a final coat (or two).  It is made by Behlen and is called Clear Finish.  I don't know what it is made of, but it goes on like a gel and comes in a sqeeze bottle.  You simply squeeze it onto your shellac finish and rub it out with a pad (I use t-shirt scraps).  It dries to a medium sheen and is resistant to spills, scratches and the like.

1. 
   Stig | Dec 19, 2005 06:17am | #6

   Ganderwood.

   Hi. I have used a product from Behlen called Master Gel. It is very good for dining tables. Is it the same as what You talked about?

   Stig.

2. 
   Stig | Dec 19, 2005 06:10am | #5

   Steve, thank You.

   I will definitely use the information in the future.

   Stig.