Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 06, 2006 03:45pm | #1

   Sounds like you are on the right track.  No matter how you apply it you will be better off diluted to 1 1/2 lb. cut, give or take.  For padding use a clean, well washed t-shirt fabric with all the ends folded into the center.  If you want to use a brush I like a watercolor wash brush, with Taklon Gold synthetic bristles. 

   In either case, the technique calls for moving quickly, mostly in one direction, and never, never going back over a spot the second time.  If you miss a spot, get it on the next coat.  Similarly if overlaps occur--they will--they will become less and less noticable as you apply additional coats.  It doesn't take much drying time between coats, but the necessary interval lengthens the more coats you have applied.  Particularly important is that if you notice any drag or pull with either pad or brush STOP immediately and let the previous coats dry longer before continuing.   

    

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Dec 08, 2006 06:15am | #2

   Hi Steve,

   You've helped me several times in the past and you've been right on the money every time.  Can you to clarify something for me: 

   You stated, " It doesn't take much drying time between coats, but the necessary interval lengthens the more coats you have applied.  Particularly important is that if you notice any drag or pull with either pad or brush STOP immediately and let the previous coats dry longer before continuing.   

   I think I understand what you mean, i.e. if there's lots of drag, the previous coat isn't dry yet.  I will be applying the shellac in a heated shop @ 60* as it's winter here in New Hampshire.

   Also, this may sound stupid but how would you dilute the 3 lb. cut Zinserr Clear to 1.5 to 2 lb cut.   My guess would be to add 1/4 pint of denatured alcohol and stir the mixture, not shake.

   I haven't graduated to making my own shellac from flakes yet......   But I will!

   I appreciate your help,

    

    Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   Kidderville, NH

    

    

   Use whatever tool needed to Git 'r Done!

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 08, 2006 06:59am | #3

   Almost, if there is ANY drag, or it is even a bit sticky, it isn't dry enough.  The penalty for not having the undercoats fully dry, is that the finish can appear to "rumple up" into an ungodly mess. 

   To dilute 3lb.cut to 2 lb. mix 2 parts alcohol with 5 parts shellac.  To dilute 3 lbs. to 1 lb. cut the ratio is 3 parts alcohol to 2 parts shellac.  And doing this be eye is almost always good enough.  Only time measurement is needed is when you are preparing a wash coat before staining and want to be able to repeat the effect at another time. 

   You can probably recoat following the first coat after 15 minutes, the second coat after 30 minutes, and the third coat after 45 minutes.  Then take a break and give it a few hours.  All this depends on how thickly you apply the shellac as well as temperature and humidity.  More time between coats is needed with brush application. 

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Dec 09, 2006 05:43am | #4

   WOW!

   I think I did exactly what you advised; as far as thinning the 3 lb cut and it seems to have worked out flawlessly, so far.   

   At first it seemed to take forever to create what I thought was an adequate finish.  Perhaps I thinned the shellac too much.  I let the coats dry; first coat- 15 minutes, 2nd coat - 30 minutes, etc, as you suggested.  I'm used to applying a much thicker finish than shellac, i.e. polyurethane.  This is the first time with shellac for me. 

   I followed your advice as to not going over missed spots; get it with the next layer.  I looked at the build up of layers as I progressed, each one blending with the previous one, albiet very thin but I could see/feel it build.

   Man. what a finish!   Maybe I should go for a French Polish? 

   Thank you!  This experience will no doubt make my next project more sucessful!

   Thanks for your help and Happy Holidays to you and yours,

    Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   Kidderville, NH

    

    

   Use whatever tool needed to Git 'r Done!

2. 
   Gilw | Dec 09, 2006 11:55pm | #5

   Shellac finishes will be with us forever! 

   Make the thinnest cut you can stand, since shellac will "migrate" around edges and appear when dry, looking as an overglued joint does. The good part is it dries in minutes, allowing fast recoats. Another benefit is the fast drying allows tender light sanding between coats. And skips blend in on the next coat. The more coats, the better and more even the "build". Damages can be "touched up" almost forever.  Contrary to other, demanding finishes, shellac will stay on anything that has previously been applied, and needs only for that prior layer to cling tightly.

   The bad?  It isn't as scuff resistant as poly. Alcohol contact, or other solvents around the shop are its nemesis.

    

   Gilw

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 10, 2006 01:20am | #6

   It's not so much the shop solvents, except alcohol and lacquer thinner and its components that are the risk, it is cleaning materials that contain ammonia.  Paint thinner and naptha don't hurt dried shellac.  And, there is plenty of time to clean up a spilled martini before any harm will result. 

3. 
   Pondfish | Dec 10, 2006 05:34pm | #7

   Shellac is a quality finish.  I recommend you do everything Steve suggested, but be careful about the cotton you use for a pad.  You don't want a too-well used piece, as it will leave lint in the finish.

   My best padding pad is a piece of what i think is a cotton-poly blend with the old T-shirt wadded up inside.  It has a nice smooth surface that leaves a great finish.  The old tshirt holds lots of shellac, so I don't have to charge the pad every few wipes.  I keep it stored in a glass jar with teflon tape wrapped on the threads to keep it from sticking closed.

   Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
1. 
   Joe Sullivan | Dec 17, 2006 07:24pm | #8

   I have used a lot of shellac, including on floors. The guys who posted before are pros and know what they are talking about. So rather than go back over their comments, a few additional points:* The manufacturer usually recommends keeping a wet edge as you move from spot to spot. I have done this with good results.* Although shellac dries very quickly, it is not fully cured for about 3 months. This means that it has not reached full hardness and solvent resistance. It can certainly be used after a day or two of curing, but care should be taken.* Shellac is non toxic and hypo-allergenic. In fact, it is used to coat medicina and hard candy.* Zinsser puts out a product called Sealcoat which is a premixed and sablized 2# cut of dewaxed shellac. Because it is dewaxed, it does not form fisheyes or other flaws when applied over other coatings. Other shellac or pretty much anything else can be applied over Sealcoat with the same good results. Ihae had very good results with it.