Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 18, 2007 09:38pm | #1

   I like the feel of shellac under hand.  It should be plenty durable, with about the only thing that could happen to it on a handrail is that someone might try to clean it with a cleaning product containing ammonia.  Avoid that and you're good.  You can use the "Amber" pre-mixed shellac.  It will work fine.  It is usually sold as three pound cut.  It will be easier to apply thinned to  1 1/2 or 2lb. cut.   I'd thin all "coats", and apply with a pad made by folding a fine cotton cloth so that all the edges are in the center. 

   A wider range of colors are available if you mix it your self.  You can also use SealCoat for a bit lighter shade.  It is a dewaxed shellac, which is also a bit more durable.  It comes already thinned to 2 lb. cut.  The "Clear" shellac has been bleached and consequently is a bit less moisture and heat resistant. 

2. 
   frenchy | Jan 19, 2007 12:56am | #2

   Dave3

       My railings will all be shellaced.. the finish is fast easy and very durable..

     two don'ts.

     Don't pour a single malt scotch* on it and let it sit.. It will remove the shellac..

      Don't keep it underwater or flood it with water and leave the water stay.  It will turn white.

    If you can't follow these instructions, simply get a rag soaked in denatured alcohol and wipe off the mistake  and reapply the finish..The new will melt into the old and leave a invisable repair..

   * actaully any alcoholic beverage..

    Since the repair can happen so quickly and invisable it's really not a big deal (unless you sell polyurethanes for a living).....   <G>

     One final point, if your children** are determined to slide down the banister they might scratch the shellac, if they do simply wipe with a rag soaked in denatured alcohol and scratch-be-gone!

    ** Or your wife claiming it was the children <G>

    

1. 
   byhammerandhand | Jan 19, 2007 04:12am | #4

   One do:
   Every once in a while clean off the fingerprints, body oils, food and other contamination. Allowed to build up, it will not only look ugly but eat through your finish, turning it gummy.A little Dawn(r) in water or a good emulsion furniture polish.

1. 
   Dave3 | Jan 19, 2007 04:18pm | #5

   Any tips on finishing the ballisters. They are turned and fluted,and 58 of them.

1. 
   frenchy | Jan 19, 2007 05:58pm | #6

   Dave3

     I'm lazy so what I'd do is get a piece of say 3 inch PVC plumbing pipe glue a cap on it. Then fill it about 3/4 full of overly thinned shellac.

     Dip and set the ballister someplace where it will stand up for at least `15 minutes..

     once dry scuff lightly and redip, now you'll need to wait about a 1/2 hour or so..

    again lightly sand and redip for the third and final time..

     when scuffing it's extremely important not to get the ridges.. if you do you will most likely remove too much shellac and be back too bare wood..

1. 
   Dave3 | Jan 20, 2007 03:18am | #7

   Thanks Frenchy I'll give it a try!

3. 
   merlvern | Jan 19, 2007 01:05am | #3

   i asked the same question recently and someone responded with the following

   "Generally I use Watco mixed with poly. Watco by itself strikes me as too thin. The reason for the poly is not just thickening, but also to slow down moisture transfer which Watco alone doesn't. Not important for a handrail, very important for panels.

   The guy I apprenticed under used a pre-thinned poly from Flecto in his oil mix, but I haven't seen it for years. Straight poly doesn't strike me as too thick. I never measured, but maybe 20-25% poly.

   Never met a grain filler I liked. What I prefer is to apply 2 heavy coats of oil mix and let it stand. Don't wipe it off. When dry, wet sand with more of the oil mix. The sludge from the earlier oilings will do a pretty good job of filling pores. Subsequent wet sandings with progressively finer paper will ultimately give a glass finish if you go fine enough.

   1000 grit I keep around, but don't usually go beyond 400. All depends on client expectation, and pocket depth. Paste wax is a shortcut to shine but the last coat of oil needs to be very dry.

   Most guests here assume I have thin lacquer on my furniture. But it's just oil.

   For matching traditional furniture with a thick surface finish, lacquer (or shellac) is better. Also shows every ding clearly.

   Tung oil or boiled linseed oil also work well. Different drying times. Straight poly is a finish I detest. Likewise catalyzed. All finishes will need some repair someday, better to have one that accepts it gracefully."

   poly is really durable, though considered somewhat......chintzy, cheapy or a sellout by some.....got to say though, it looks terrific, and quite tough.

   anyhow, good luck