I’ve started mixing my own shellac, and the process for me has not been as straight forward as anticipated. I’m using flakes from Wood Finishing Enterprises mixed for a 2# cut with 99% isopropyl alcohol from Alliance Products. Two areas where advice is invited: Pulverizing the larger flakes before mixing. Because of dryness and static attraction I have yet to find a reliable method that does not result in flakes spreading around the workbench; even with regular agitation, a gel forms at the bottom of the glass canning jar used for mixing and persistently clings to the bottom requiring quite a bit of poking and stirring to dislodge. Even then it does not readily go into solution. Start with flakes and some alcohol in a blender? Suggestions and advice appreciated!
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Replies
Yes. In my experience it takes rather frequent agitation and stirring to get it into complete solution. I found it easiest to just pour in the alcohol onto the flakes and let it set with occasional stirring. It might take a couple of days.
However, I also have one of those small electric coffee grinders similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Ovente-One-Touch-Spices-Seeds-Grains-Stainless-CG225W/dp/B0118FH5EY/ref=sr_1_7?crid=34CNQ41F5EJ6T&keywords=coffee+grinder&qid=1676127654&sprefix=coffee+grinder%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-7
that works very well in grinding the flakes into a fine grain or powder prior to adding the alcohol. This works very well for getting it into solution quicker.
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I've crushed the flakes in the jar with a dowel and then added the alcohol. Sometimes they dissolve on their own, sometimes they need frequent stirring, sometimes they solidify so much I've tossed the jar and started over.
Summary: ethanol better than isopropyl for this purpose.
I use the flakes as they come in the bag including some big agglomerate and dissolve in 100% methyl alcool. I let the jar sit in the sink with hot water for an hour or two and give it a good shake every half hour , this takes care of 90% of it, the next 10% will take place overnight.
I would also go to pure ethanol if you can get it.
You might want to try a magnetic stirrer. You can find an inexpensive one online. Plug in the base, drop a magnet in your shellac container, and switch it on. The magnet moves around inside, constantly stirring.
I got the isopropyl alcohol at a time when denatured alcohol and ethanol weren’t available, but supplies have rebounded so I give a different solvent a try. Used a budget stirrer bought online with anticipation of a good result, but the magnetic cylinder barrel rolled instead of stirred so I sent it back. Not at all like I recalled from chemistry lab classes. Good suggestion, though. Price points matter.
I have very little experience with isopropyl and shellac, so I can't say much about it. But ethanol has always worked for me.
A magnetic stirrer is not needed. Mix in a ball jar, placing in a bowl of warm water will speed things up but is not necessary. I place the jar next to the kitchen sink and shake when I happen to walk by. Leave overnight and it will be ready by the next morning. Run it through a paint strainer before use to get rid of any solids.
I am a big fan of Mohawk’s Shellac Reducer. Very high ethanol content. No methanol. It usually takes 2-3 days to dissolve my flakes with occasional stirring. SDS says it meets CA requirements. The Mohawk site a a good dealer locator tool.
I've used isopropyl, 190 proof ethanol, alcohol denatured with methanol, and alcohol denatured with isopropanol and butanol. Mostly use flakes. Of all the different solvents, I have found the isopropanol seems to take a bit longer to dissolve. Getting a gel on the bottom is common no matter the solvent even with frequent shaking. It breaks up and dissolves. Usually, even with isopropanol, I can have it ready for use in two days. I can get it done quicker but two days is if I'm not trying too hard to get it to dissolve. In a perfect world, I start dissolving it the week before I need it. That way, I can just give it a good shake when going to and from work. After a few days, I then use a stick and give the gel and good stir. Doing this twice is usually enough.
I always use a small spice/grinder...grind the dewaxed flakes to powder. Never a problem and usually dissolves fully within a few hours with some agitation. As well, always use DNA. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004SPEU?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title&th=1
I have just used Zinssers for so many years . . . I have tried flakes, chips, coffee grinders, pestles, etc. Unless the shellac you want comes in a color you cannot tint using dyes I have not seen the reason for the extra work.
To each his own and there is always more than one way to skin the cat. I use Zinssers Seal Coat as an unwaxed base and adjust from there. Life's been good to me so far (sorry Joe).
We can’t get Zinser seal coat anymore here, it’s been a problem for the past 5-6 years when it was only available in galons so I got used to flakes. Would go back to Sealcoat if I find it.
And I thought California was difficult. Where are you?
Montreal but I don’t think it’s environmentally related. Looks more like a commercial move not to distribute to small stores.
It might be broader. I haven't seen quarts in a long time, but I haven't really looked. I always get a gallon.
I use pretty much just the Sealcoat too. Sorry you can't get it there.
I would place the shellac pieces into folded up butcher paper and use a rolling pin (wine bottle is an acceptable substitute) to crush them to a even size. The flakes slide off the paper into the jar easily. Anything left can be brushed out.
Denatured alcohol to get the cut you want and just keep shaking the jar. When the flakes are pulverized very small they mix and dissolve quite well and fairly quickly.
Thans to all. I have now gotten better results using denatured alcohol rather than the 99% isopropyl.
What I've do now since, I, like you, had a fair bit of isopropanol, is I use the isopropanol now to clean the brushes after I'm done putting on the shellac.
Glad to hear the DNA is working. I'll usually combine my flakes and DNA in a Mason jar a couple days before I need to use it, giving it the occasional shake when I think about it. It seems to work well.
I have a coffee grinder (Krups from home goods or Kohls or something like that...was $10) and that helps. But, I have to say, I did buy a magnetic lab stirrer when Chris Schwarz put out a blog about it a year or two ago. Yes, its not "necessary." Not by any stretch. But, it is really cool and kind of a fun gadget...and it does really work on shellac. It'll cut the process time in half. With the grinder and the mixer, what I used to have to plan for two days in advance, is same day.
Also, if you are in a state that sells 190 proof grain alcohol (Everclear or the like) this not only has less water/is purer than hardware store DNA, it doesn't have any of the toxicity issues that come with the methanol (poison) they add to DNA. Yes, the liquor store solvent is a bit more expensive but methanol is really bad stuff --and it is absorbed through skin and the vapors through mucus membranes.
I've tried all the solvents and I prefer 190 proof Everclear. I agree MeOH is bad stuff. It turns out, you can go on Amazon and get 1 gallon of 190 proof ethanol delivered for around $100. Not cheap. For most folks that would last years though. Mostly, when I go to Oregon or Nevada, I pick up a few bottles or friends get me a few bottles of 190 proof ethanol. I don't understand why CA won't allow it to be sold here.
Give this a try.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQ-FEtA0TKU
At 7min 53 seconds. He talks about and answers your question.