Replies

1. 
   Floss | May 27, 2005 05:02am | #1

   There are a couple of ways to fix it. You can use a lint free rag with alcohol and rub out the drips, I would probably use a thinned version of the shellac. You could make a pad with a rag and some wadding on the inside charged with shellac and alcohol and smooth out the drips. Also I have used a stiff artists brush dipped in alcohol and with circular motions removed runs or drips and then redistributed the shellac with the brush and evened out the area. This technique works rather well and you can work small areas at a time.

   The tough thing is that the shellac is tinted. If you try to rub it out you will end up with a streaked finish which you may end up removing altogether. It is not difficult to soften the shellac and redistribute. It may take a couple of tries.

   J.P.

   http://www.jpkfinefurniture.com
2. 
   forestgirl | May 28, 2005 06:51pm | #2

   Of all the finishes to have this happen with, shellac was the one to "choose."  Hope you didn't lose too much sleep over it last night :-(    It dissolves so easily with alcohol, J.P.'s instructions should get you through it just fine.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

3. 
   Rich14 | May 28, 2005 09:28pm | #3

   jbl,

   "Removing" the streaks and drips with alcohol will get you just so far. You will get to a point where not much more removal will happen and there will still be areas of darker wood next to lighter regions. So you will eventually need to take down the surface. Whether you use a scaper or sandpaper is your own call. You may find that a combination of the 2 is needed. Actually, knock the shellac drips that are proud of the wood off with the scraper first, then alcohol, then final abrading.

   But it shouldn't take to much effort, starting with alcohol and finishing up with whatever mechanical removal is needed.

   Have you considered staining first, then applying clear shellac? If you do, use a shellac "sealing coat" to avoid blotching when staining maple.

   Retarding shellac from drying and avoiding drips as you work fast is an age-old problem. ESPECIALLY when the shellac is tinted. Without tint, it's very easy to correct. Very dry, warm days make life tough for a shellac finisher. You can retard the drying with a little turpentine in the shellac (yes turpentine!).

   Try wiping shellac on for the first several coats, instead of brushing. But the only way I know to apply a rapidly drying finish like shellac or lacquer with uniform success is by spraying.

   To a novice, spraying seems to make the problem worse, but it doesn't take very long to get the hang of spraying a very light, very quick, yet fully wet coat which will NOT run or drip at all. Nada. Students are usually surprised when they see how very rapidly the gun is moved over the piece. Once you learn the joy of applying finish by spray (even with an aerosol can) there is no going back!

   Rich

4. 
   BG | May 29, 2005 12:56am | #4

   JbJ,
   When I ean into a similar problem a few years ago on a two drawer lateral file here is what I was told to do. Sprinkle water on the top and rub hard with a block and 400 grit ....made it perfectly smooth. Then I applied more shellac and rub out (no water) with 600 grit. Another application of shellac and rub out again until its what you want....I next went to 1000 grit. He told me that once he applied 18 layers of shellac...and don't be affraid of hurting it.
   To be honest, the finish came out fine, but when the afternoon sun hits the stain ..I don't like the look and wish I had applied the stain to the wood.

    

5. 
   AlbionWood | May 29, 2005 03:07am | #5

   As you just found out, brushing shellac on large pieces can be tricky. Even if you avoid runs and drips, it's tough keeping a wet edge; and with tinted shellac, the difference between a thick coat and a thin one really shows up. Padding on is way easier for large pieces, but more tedious.

   Try the techniques J.P. suggested. Shellac can be redissolved in alcohol any number of times, so you can get most of the runs/drips off or smoothed out. If all else fails, it is remarkably easy to sand shellac as well, so you can go right down to the wood and start over.

   "Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler."  A. Einstein

   http://www.albionworks.net

1. 
   geppetto425 | Jun 03, 2005 08:01pm | #6

   I just wanted to thank all who replied to my shellac question. I really appreciate your knowledge and input. I am sanding it down and then reapplying the tinted shellac with a pad.Thanks again and sorry I didn’t thank you sooner..... I will try and post a picture of the bed after it’s done.

1. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 04, 2005 03:01am | #7

   I've never had any success in brushing shellac over a large surface, unless I thinned it way down. I realize you thinned your first coat a lot, but I would thin it even more. Spraying though, is an entirely different matter. I sprayed a couple of rooms worth of casings, baseboards, and crown moldings for a guy who insisted on shellac. It was really easy, but the final sprayed finish was too glossy for my taste. He ended up rubbing it down, and it did look pretty spectacular after that last step. I'm told that shellac was a standard floor finish for years on end. And I always wondered how they did the application to avoid the problems you encountered.********************************************************
   "I tend to live in the past because most of my life is there."
   -- Herb Caen (1916-1997)

6. 
   philip | Jun 04, 2005 12:13pm | #8

   jb,
   Here is an example of when it would be useful if the poster had put some detail into his profile- I am saying that if you are doing quite a lot of fine woodworking then compressed air and the spray gun are great things.... For me , there was little life ,if any, before I got a compressor,spray guns and the rest.Paint brushes? I use them for cleaning ,brushing brass chippings etc off my lathe and other menial jobs.
   I would think that having removed the shellac with alcohol and fine steel wool and maybe then having streaks, you could apply the stain direct to even it out.
   Pencil post bed- nice project-why not post a picture or two?

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/4/2005 5:16 am ET by mookaroid

1. 
   StorminNormann | Jun 04, 2005 03:23pm | #9

   I agree with Mookaroid. Just finished a built-in dresser for my daughter's room. I applied 2# shellac with my HVLP gun. Generally it went very well but I'm thinking of french polishing now that it's cured some.I've always been quite fearful of my finishing ability until I got a HVLP setup. Didn't cost a lot either. Got the 20 gal, 5HP compressor used for $200 and the gun, a made in Taiwan Porter Cable, for under $100. Well worth the money IMHO.Just don't like having to wear a respirator with the shellac. If only I had a still out back... I did look into buying reagent grade alcohol but thanks to all you drunks out there, there's a hefty surcharge (like $25 a gal). So much for that plan although maybe quality would suffer if I did use the pure stuff LOL__________________________________________________________________________________
   It is noble to teach oneself, it is still nobler to teach others -- Samuel Clemens
   __________________________________________________________________________________Steve

1. 
   Biscardi | Jun 05, 2005 04:23am | #10

   I also think it is hard to brush on shellac. I tried Zinser and didn't like it.

   I tend to use  a pretty light cut of fresh , home- mixed shellac (2lbs) and wipe it on. Every third coat or so, let it harden a few hours and steel wool it. It takes a while to build up a nice surface, but it really is gorgeous.

   I think tinting shellac dulls the surace a bit. Lots of folks do it though.

   On cherry I like to use sunlight then  BLO, then orange shellac and then finish off with superblonde.

   Good luck

   Frank