Replies

1. 
   jonsherryl | Sep 24, 2003 06:35pm | #1

   Mitch, the Minwax wood hardener will penetrate the surface and strengthen the wood a little more than the shellac will...if you think you really might have a serious problem with spalted stock that's gotten a little too punky.

   As for shellac as a finish on spalted stock, it's okay if the spalting displays dark and sharply defined brown or black veining...but even the most purified of shellacs have a slight amber pigmentation that tends to mask some of the figure, if it's at all subtle (meaning with transitional gray or blue zones)...So, if I'm trying to preserve any faint color highlights in a spalted stock, like the coral pink hues in boxelder or the magentas in ambrosia maple, I usually opt for lacquer. Even lacquer kills the colors a bit, but it's the better of the two choices. I suppose some of the modern waterborne acrylics might also work well, but I never use them.  

1. 
   MitchEvans | Sep 25, 2003 05:59am | #3

   thanks for the feedback...with my next batch of spalted beech, I'll try the wood hardner where needed...I'll probably still use a coat of shellac on top of the hardner as a primer coat...much feedback praises cut shellac sealer as able to bond anything...for a top coat I'll use a dull rub lacquer by Sherwin Williams...it has proven to be perfect for a look that lets the wood grain do the talking without any gloss at all...I do hit lit with a little 0000 steel wool once it has dried and cured. Ben Moore also has their own version of a dull rub lacquer that can be had for around 15.00 a gallon.

1. 
   Kevin | Sep 25, 2003 08:06am | #6

   Mitch,

   I agree with Jon's excellent comments. For an old woodworker, he knows a thing or two about finishes. <G>

   You're absolutely right about the fine reputation that Shellac has for bonding to just about anything. Less well known, because it's only used commercially, is vinyl sealer which also has an excellent barrier/bonding coat reputation. Sherwin Williams makes several clear vinyl sealers, both catalyzed and non-catalyzed as well as one hybrid vinyl/nitrocellulose sealer. Vinyl is less yellow to begin with and will yellow less with age than lacquer will. If you go that route, you might also look into Sherwin Williams' catalyzed vinyl topcoats too. They have two, KEMVAR "M" and KEMVAR "C". I've been using a lot of the "M" lately on Birch and I really like it a lot. One nice thing with it is that being a conversion varnish it is designed to be self-sealing. So, you can just shoot the piece, let it dry, treat it however you'd treat any other sealer and then topcoat it with itself. Of course if you're already planning on using a CAB/Acrylic lacquer... forget all this stuff. That's a fantastic product that won't yellow at all.

   Regards,

   Kevin

1. 
   MitchEvans | Sep 25, 2003 04:47pm | #8

   thanks for the feedback, I'll check with my S/W dealer for availability and cost. But as of this writing I am very satisfied with brushing on the shellac as needed...then spraying on the lacquer...it works....but I'll keep your advice on file for future use. By the way, has anybody out there tried the Porter Cable hand held HVLP unit ? The cost is only about $100.00 and it has given me great results. Maybe not the thing for a high volume shop, but perfect for the hobbiest  with not so deep pockets.

2. 
   Lilshaver | Sep 25, 2003 04:59am | #2

   I have used epoxy sealers on spalted woods with good results. The advantage that I see is that one can put on very healthy coats without fear that the finish will harden. The epoxy not only seals the wood, but it "glues" the soft fibers together.

   My use was limited to wood for turning, but it ought to work for other uses as well....I think.

1. 
   MitchEvans | Sep 25, 2003 06:06am | #4

   my only concern would be the penetrating qualities of epoxy...would it need extensive between coat sanding...and how would a dull rub lacquer do as a top coat. I am also wondering if the combination of all these epoxies, sealers and top coats might make for too thick of a finish.

1. 
   Telemike | Sep 25, 2003 06:34am | #5

   If you use epoxy, get some of the epoxy that is used for hardening dry rot.  Marine supplies have it.  It's very low viscosity (thin) and penetrates well.

1. 
   MitchEvans | Sep 25, 2003 04:31pm | #7

   thanks for the feedback